[Public-List] Topsides painting experience to share

Gordon Laco via Public-List public-list at lists.alberg30.org
Tue Jul 15 07:50:02 PDT 2014


Enamel paint is by it¹s nature, much thicker than polyurethane ­ adjusting
the thickness to tune the flow so that it brushes well is good practice.

G



On 15/07/14 10:45 AM, "Wes Gardner" <wesgardner1952 at gmail.com> wrote:

> This was thirty years ago, we were old school, used enamel and thinned the
> flang out of it with both thinner and easy brush, most of the boats we painted
> were white and the paint looked about like milk, quite thin...you DO have to
> move along, no stopping, used the best brush money could buy, took really good
> care of them
> 
> 
> On Tue, Jul 15, 2014 at 9:44 AM, Gordon Laco via Public-List
> <public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:
>> We don't recommend thinning two part polyurethane when painting fibre glass
>> unless particular brushing conditions exist (such as high temperature...)
>> 
>> Maybe I should be responding professionally off list?
>> 
>> Gord
>> #426 Surprise
>> AKA Epifanes Canada
>> 
>> 
>> On 15/07/14 9:35 AM, "Wehicks" <wehicks at gmail.com> wrote:
>> 
>>> > Do you thin paint til it's like water or can you give me an idea how thin
>>> with
>>> > examples?  Ketchup , honey , stp, motor oil, etc.
>>> > thanks
>>> > Walter
>>> >
>>> > Sent from my iPhone
>>> >
>>>> >> On Jul 15, 2014, at 7:58 AM, Gordon Laco via Public-List
>>>> >> <public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:
>>>> >>
>>>> >> Our position at Epifanes is that done well, a roll and tip job is
>>>> superior
>>>> >> to spraying...
>>>> >>
>>>> >> Gord
>>>> >> #426 Surprise
>>>> >>
>>>> >>
>>>> >> On 14/07/14 8:11 PM, "Wes Gardner via Public-List"
>>>> >> <public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:
>>>> >>
>>>>> >>> We used to brush paint 100'+ foot boats with nice scaffolding and a
>>>>> paint
>>>>> >>> crew
>>>>> >>> of 3 - 4, always horizontally brushing back into your work and
>>>>> maintaining a
>>>>> >>> wet edge. Calm weather and out if the sun is key. I can make brush
>>>>> paint
>>>>> >>> look
>>>>> >>> like a spray job, it's all about the flow....
>>>>> >>>
>>>>> >>> Sent from my location
>>>>> >>>
>>>>> >>> On Jul 14, 2014, at 5:27 PM, Randy Katz via Public-List
>>>>> >>> <public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:
>>>>> >>>
>>>>>> >>>> Greetings, All,
>>>>>> >>>>
>>>>>> >>>> I just successfully finished painting the topsides of the boat. It
>>>>>> turned
>>>>>> >>>> out rather well, especially considering it was my first experience
with
>>>>>> >>>> one-part polyurethane. There were definitely tricks to learn along
>>>>>> the way,
>>>>>> >>>> and having read a lot in advance was VERY helpful. I was out of the
>>>>>> water
>>>>>> >>>> for about 2 weeks.
>>>>>> >>>>
>>>>>> >>>> (Did a relatively simple bottom painting, too. I'm trying an
>>>>>> ablative
>>>>>> >>>> (Interlux ACT) over too-thick layers of West Marine Bottomshield,
>>>>>> which I
>>>>>> >>>> chipped off as best I could. Need to strip the bottom next year....)
>>>>>> >>>>
>>>>>> >>>> I used Interlux Brightside white gloss and Interlux primer (also
>>>>>> white,
>>>>>> >>>> though an off-color would have helped in order to distinguish
>>>>>> between
>>>>>> >>>> primer and finish coat).
>>>>>> >>>>
>>>>>> >>>> And yep, prepping was most of the job! Simple scaffolding (an
>>>>>> elevated
>>>>>> >>>> board walkway, really) made all parts reachable. I sanded through 12
yr.
>>>>>> >>>> old coats of Rustoleum applied by the previous owner over the gel
>>>>>> coat.
>>>>>> >>>> (That paint was listed as "good" by Practical Sailor-- that
>>>>>> surprised me!
>>>>>> >>>> It had fish oil in it---?) There were, alas, spots where sanding
went
>>>>>> >>>> through to the bare fiberglass: I used the grit and primer as
>>>>>> recommended
>>>>>> >>>> by Interlux in those cases. The hull looked like hell when I was
>>>>>> finished,
>>>>>> >>>> and I couldn't wait to get primer on to cover that mess!
>>>>>> >>>>
>>>>>> >>>> I applied two primer coats and three finish coats, sanding between
as
>>>>>> >>>> recommended. There is a bit of an art to the sanding and painting
>>>>>> process,
>>>>>> >>>> which I was beginning to get a handle on by the time I finished (of
>>>>>> >>>> course!). In the end, I have a shiny coating that looks great with
>>>>>> only a
>>>>>> >>>> few dings here and there, but even those pass the 10-feet-away test.
>>>>>> >>>>
>>>>>> >>>> Rolling and tipping-- I used foam rollers from LFS in Bellingham
>>>>>> ("slacker"
>>>>>> >>>> brand). These had a bit thicker nap than West Marine's and so were
>>>>>> easier
>>>>>> >>>> to control. Thinning with Interlux 333 helped keep the paint flowing
>>>>>> during
>>>>>> >>>> hot/windy times of the day. Question-- Best to tip with horizontal
>>>>>> strokes
>>>>>> >>>> or with vertical strokes? I used horizontal, and things turned out
>>>>>> well.
>>>>>> >>>> Another person in the yard (The Landings, Bellingham) went with
>>>>>> vertical
>>>>>> >>>> tips with the plan to avoid drips and runs.
>>>>>> >>>>
>>>>>> >>>> Well, who knows?
>>>>>> >>>>
>>>>>> >>>> At any rate, this was a job I'd avoided for several years. It turned
>>>>>> out to
>>>>>> >>>> be laborious, but not as bad as I'd expected--and the boat looks a
>>>>>> HECK of
>>>>>> >>>> a lot better than before.
>>>>>> >>>>
>>>>>> >>>> If any of you would like to see a basic assortment of photos, let me
>>>>>> know--
>>>>>> >>>> I'd be glad to send you a few.
>>>>>> >>>>
>>>>>> >>>> Hope this helps--
>>>>>> >>>>
>>>>>> >>>> Best Regards,
>>>>>> >>>>
>>>>>> >>>> Randy Katz
>>>>>> >>>> #249, Simple Gifts
>>>>>> >>>> Bellingham/Seattle
>>>>>> >>>>
>>>>>> >>>>
>>>>>> >>>>
>>>>>> >>>>
>>>>>> >>>> --
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>> 
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> 


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