[Public-List] Portlights & toe rails.

Jeffrey via Public-List public-list at lists.alberg30.org
Sat Oct 4 15:11:10 PDT 2014 

Glenn,

What did you use for a scarfing joint where each section joins in the
middle? Is it glued, mechanically fastened, both? How is the joint holding
up?

-Jeff


On Sat, Oct 4, 2014 at 1:01 PM, Glenn Brooks via Public-List <
public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:

> Hello Wehicks,
>
> The deck camber seems daunting at first, but it turned out fairly simple
> to measure and scribe the angles onto new bulwarks/toe rail stock.  After I
> stripped off the old toe rails, I scribed a pencil mark on the deck joint
> every 12" from stem head to taff rail.  Then used a cheap carpenters
> protractor to measure the deck to hull angle at each station. The key here
> is to find a bevel/protractor, not sure of the correct name,  that has a
> swivel arm and a graduated arc on the backplate that allows you to measure
> degrees of angle over the edge of the deck/hull joint.  I found a cheap
> stainless one at Home Depot for 10 bucks or so....
>
> Once you pick up the deck arc at each station, lay out your measurements
> on a 30' loa plywood workbench.  Make a temp workbench out of saw horses
> and plywood, maybe 12" wide, with stations and measurements scribed right
> into the plywood.  This becomes your workbench for transferring the angle
> of the bevel onto the side of the new toe rails/bulwarks stock, and
> clamping stock upright for planning. Then cut the taper for the rail to
> whatever dimensions you like - I opted to create 4" tall bulwarks, tapering
> to 2 1/2" at the taff rail, and hand held power planer to bevel the bottom
> side of the stock to suit the deck angle.
>
> Practice cutting a bevelon a piece of 2x4 if you haven't used a hand
> planer before, then jump right in. It is actually quite easy.
>
> ALSO, VERY WORTHWHILE to buy a hand plane to dress up the final bevel and
> take out any highlights. With a 48" dry wall straightedge you can see any
> gaps and highlights in the bevel, and smooth out the planned surface to
> almost a true edge.  Surprising easy and effective. In fact the hand plane
> has turned out to be the best tool I've ever bought for wood working.
>
> I used 2"x8"x16' Sapele boards in lieu of teak because of cost.  Then
> capped the sapele with 5/8" thick teak cap rail. Scarfed the sapele
> amidships with a 14" joint held together with epoxy and thru bolts and wood
> screws.
>
> The biggest challenge for me was planning a consistent bevel on the bottom
> of the stock, so that it laid true on the deck - without voids so that
> water could not seep in and leak below decks thru the bolt holes every 4".
> In the end, you want a 30' piece of wood stock with a true bevel the whole
> length.  When installing,  Bed everything well with Dolphinite bedding
> compound and thru bolt  with 1/4" stainless bolts.   In places where I did
> have highlights, e.g. An open seam between the deck and bulwark, I caulked
> the void with Cotten and filled with a seam sealer, just like caulking a
> wood boat.  Then oiled 7 coats and applied one coat of varnish for extra
> measure.  No leaks and the finish is holding up well now in its third
> season.
>
> As an FYI, it's easier to plane down the bevel if you can do so next to
> the boat in a yard.  This enables you to easily fit the stock to check the
> deck camber.  I did everything off site and took finished product up to the
> boat, as it was in the water in my slip, and installed in from dock side.
> Didn't fit it to the boat before hand, and had to make a few finish cuts on
> the dock.  Not idea, but it worked OK, mainly because I had a good pattern
> to work from with my stations scribed into the plywood workbench.
>
> A word about materials.  I filled the original bolt holes thru the deck
> with 5200, also filled some deck hull joint gaps with 5200.  then drilled
> new holes down through the bulwark, but Caulked the bolts in the new holes
> with Dolphinite bedding compound.  Had I to do this over, I would certainly
> now fill the deck joint gaps with structural fiberglass putty, and lay
> maybe three coats of FG mat and roving tape over the joint to waterproof
> it. Epoxy is needlessly expensive for this job, and offers no benefits over
> fiberglass resin that I can see. Also,  Do not use 5200 to bed the new wood
> stock.  5200 does not contain fungicide, so has no rot resisting
> properties.  Plus it doesn't last long when exposed to moisture and
> repeated annual wood swelling, so may cause problems in a few years.
> Resulting in leaks, and you getting to do the job over again with a bunch
> of permanent adhesive in places you don't want it to be.  Dolphinite will
> last 30 + years in this application, is complet
>  ely reliable under all weather conditions, is superb for inhibiting leaks
> and rot formation between the wood and deck, and gives up the wood if you
> ever want to take it off or make repairs.
>
> I opted to go with bulwarks and cap rail because I've always liked the
> idea of bulwarks, and it is the same amount or work as toe rails,  so
> figured - why not!
>
> The job is completely doable.  Just takes a few steps.  Good luck. You
> will enjoy the outcome!
>
> Regards,
> Glenn Brooks
> dolce 318
>
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> > On Oct 3, 2014, at 8:21 PM, Wehicks via Public-List <
> public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:
> >
> > I also need help with my toe rail. Mine rotted and I didn't realized
> that it was going to be as difficult to fit this account being a compound
> angle. Any help would  be great.  Pictures of how to please.
> >
> > Sent from my iPhone
> >
> >> On Oct 3, 2014, at 5:24 PM, Jeffrey via Public-List <
> public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:
> >>
> >> Glenn,
> >>
> >> Would you have any pictures of your bulwarks?  That sounds like an
> >> interesting project. What species of wood did you use?
> >>
> >> jeff
> >>
> >> Seagrass. #116
> >> Boothbay Harbor, Maine
> >> http://sailboatseagrass.com/
> >>
> >> <http://instagram.com/jfongemie>
> >>
> >> On Fri, Oct 3, 2014 at 6:13 PM, Glenn via Public-List <
> >> public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:
> >>
> >>> Greg
> >>> Are you asking about the actual window material?  If so, I replaced
> >>> everything on Dolce with polycarbonate, same thickness as the cabin
> sides,
> >>> bedded all around with Dolphinite.  Maybe 1/4" or 5/16" can't
> remember. But
> >>> make it the same thickness as the cabin wall.
> >>>
> >>> I replaced my toe rails with 4" bulwarks capped with teak a couple of
> >>> years ago.  I like the extra foot hold and security whilst walking
> along
> >>> the deck.  The deck is cambered so the bottom of the rail or bulwark
> needs
> >>> to be planed on an angle   to sit upright when bolted back down.  I
> lifted
> >>> angles of the deck camber every foot then laid out the pattern on a
> 30' loa
> >>> strip of plywood mounted on saw horses.  That became my workbench to
> shape
> >>> the bulwarks.  Toe rails could be done the same, then rounded to shape
> on
> >>> top with a hand held power planner.
> >>>
> >>> Alternatively Most marine suppliers can order aluminum toe rail.  You
> >>> would need to figure out the transitions with the raised wooden piece
> at
> >>> the stem head and wood taff rail, and some minor deck molding where cut
> >>> waters exist in the toerail.
> >>>
> >>> Glenn Brooks
> >>> Dolce 318
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> Sent from my iPhone
> >>>
> >>>>> On Oct 3, 2014, at 2:14 PM, Greg Dawson via Public-List <
> >>>> public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>> Hi there.
> >>>>
> >>>> Has anyone replaced their portlights? What material did you use and
> how
> >>> thick was it?
> >>>>
> >>>> Also, has anyone replaced their toe rails? the wood work on my 1968
> >>> Alberg isn't great and I am thinking of changing to Aluminium rails.
> Does
> >>> anyone know of a good supplier or have any advice please.
> >>>>
> >>>> Greg,
> >>>>
> >>>> Good hope #348
> >>>> _______________________________________________
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> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> --
> >> ______________
> >>
> >> Jeffrey Fongemie
> >>
> >> <http://instagram.com/jfongemie>
> >> _______________________________________________
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-- 
______________

Jeffrey Fongemie

<http://instagram.com/jfongemie>

 1412460670.0

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