[Public-List] Replace/rebuild engine

Tue Aug 4 05:47:56 PDT 2015

Thanks Wes,

I have the Mitsubishi/Vetus M3.10 in my boat. I'll be sure to take a look
at this.

jeff

Seagrass. #116
Boothbay Harbor, Maine
http://sailboatseagrass.com/

<http://instagram.com/jfongemie>

On Mon, Aug 3, 2015 at 9:25 PM, Wes Gardner via Public-List <
public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:

> On this motor, the oil pressure sender is mounted on an 1/8" nipple
> sticking out of the side of the motor a goodly bit, dunno why, probably a
> PO arrangement as the gauge IS new - over the years the thing was probably
> bashed a few times as the dip stick is in that vicinity, weakened enough to
> where it finally failed due to vibration or me giving it the last nudge the
> little pipe could stand???
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> > On Aug 3, 2015, at 7:46 PM, Jonathan Bresler <262alberg30 at gmail.com>
> wrote:
> >
> > Wes,
> >
> > Very sorry to hear that the engine seized.
> >
> > Would be very interested in any information about how the oil pressure
> sender came loose.
> >
> > Seem to remember that oil pressure senders use the engine as an
> electrical path to ground.  Sufficient oil pressure causes the sender to
> open the normally closed circuit. The circuit is normally closed so that
> the warning light and alarm is energized until oil pressure is detected by
> the sender.
> >
> > If all this is correct, then losing the connection to the engine is the
> reverse of fail-safe....fail-hard?  Seems losing power to the sender, while
> running, would also result in inability to detect low or no oil pressure
> via the sender and lights.  An oil pressure gauge, in contrast to a warning
> light, would show low or no oil pressure, if one happened to look at it.
> >
> > Jonathan
> >
> >> On Aug 3, 2015 6:56 PM, "Wes Gardner via Public-List" <
> public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:
> >> Thanks all for the responses...I think the best course of action is to
> get the motor out, have a good look/autopsy and then see what the options
> are since the thing will need to come out anyway (most likely)...I like the
> electric option, dunno the costs???
> >>
> >> Sent from my iPad
> >>
> >> > On Aug 3, 2015, at 5:34 PM, Richard Mair <ramair49 at gmail.com> wrote:
> >> >
> >> > I vote for the electric option. Into The Blue has an electric yacht
> motor. As a day sailor weekender we find it great.
> >> > Those times when you have to motor sail make life a lot quieter. You
> will need to change the prop. We turn a 13×12 three blade.
> >> > On Aug 3, 2015 2:35 PM, "Wes Gardner via Public-List" <
> public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:
> >> > >
> >> > > Or should I consider the electric option....I will only be
> daysailing and weekending so staying hooked up to shore power is not a big
> deal.
> >> > >
> >> > > Sent from my iPad
> >> > >
> >> > > > On Aug 3, 2015, at 9:44 AM, Gordon Laco <mainstay at csolve.net>
> wrote:
> >> > > >
> >> > > > Or ...
> >> > > >
> >> > > > You could drop in a rebuilt Atomic IV from Moyer...
> >> > > >
> >> > > > Gord Surprise 426
> >> > > > (I reckon what I've just written could be called 'throwing
> gasoline on the fire...)
> >> > > >
> >> > > > :•)
> >> > > >
> >> > > >> On 2015-08-03, at 9:14 AM, Don Campbell via Public-List <
> public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:
> >> > > >>
> >> > > >> Wes:
> >> > > >>  Now that the motor has cooled to air temperature, try to turn
> it over by hand by using a crank  or wrench on the crankshaft,  if the
> configuration allows you to get on a nut or fitting of any kind. You may
> have to remove the injectors to get rid of the compression but make sure
> you keep things clean on their tips and both ends of the fuel line at the
> top of the injector that you have opened.  If it turns over, (and there
> should be some resistance because of compression if you try without
> removing the injectors), then check the oil drain plug for metal fragments.
> Most plugs are magnetized and will attract filings or pieces if there are
> any. You may have to irrigate the system with a bit of oil so that the
> pieces will flow to the plug if they are in the bottom of the pan.  If
> there are pieces, then you may want to break down the engine further before
> going on. Otherwise, refill with oil, plug the hole for the oil pressure
> sender with a new pressure gauge, have your injectors back in and try
> turning it over with the battery.  If it starts, then carefully monitor
> both  the oil pressure gauge to make sure the pump is working,  and the
> temperature gauge to make sure there is cooling. If you can,  use a wooden
> stick to go from your ear to each of the three cylinders to try to hear if
> things are clanking or the rings not working well with the oil pressure.
> The wood magnifies the sound and all 3 should sound the same.
> >> > > >>
> >> > > >> Try to get a measure of the pressure in each cylinder with a
> compression test on each. I gather the pressure should be about 350 psi in
> each cylinder for this motor. If pressures are down, it may be due to a
> broken ring or head gasket leak and you need to then consider how much of a
> rebuild you are going to undertake.  Otherwise, get a manual for the motor
> and then you may have to remove the head so you can see how blue or
> discoloured the inside of the motor might be.   If the rings are seized,
> then I imagine it will be a mechanic's estimate on which to decide to
> rebuild or replace. Assuming you have some reasonable wrenches and sockets,
> and you are careful removing things as you go, there is no need to have a
> mechanic do the tear down, but keeping parts in an order, and clean is
> imperative. You do not want dust anywhere in the fuel system or chambers of
> the engine. Plastic bags with ziplocks, plastic with tape on fuel lines and
> cloth stuffed into injector ports and over cylinders are easy to do as you
> go. You will need to be able to remove the engine from the boat for the
> rebuild so the dust covers need to be sufficiently attached to allow you to
> do that.
> >> > > >>
> >> > > >>
> >> > > >>  That said, there must be a reason the oil sending unit
> separated from the motor. Check the motor mounts to see that they are
> within tolerance for coping with the vibration damping necessary for a
> diesel.   If it broke away, then sort out the problem of a solid
> transmission line to the gauge with a more flexible material so that the
> vibration from the diesel does not end up doing the same thing a second
> time.  This may have been  better than if the shaft to the prop had let go
> and flooded the boat, but that alignment is also subject to the vibration
> if the mounts are not good.
> >> > > >> Don
> >> > > >>
> >> > > >> -----Original Message----- From: Wes Gardner via Public-List
> >> > > >> Sent: Monday, August 03, 2015 8:11 AM
> >> > > >> To: public-list at lists.alberg30.org
> >> > > >> Subject: [Public-List] Replace/rebuild engine
> >> > > >>
> >> > > >> Last night, although a beautiful night for sailing on the Bay,
> was not a good night for me when motoring home. Apparently, the oil
> pressure sender came adrift from the side of the motor and pumped all the
> oil into the bilge. The motor seized up while running, ouch. The motor is a
> Mitsubishi/Vetus M3.10
> >> > > >>
> >> > > >> So now the question - rebuild the existing motor, replace with
> new ???, convert to electric.  Any and all suggestions are welcome.
> >> > > >>
> >> > > >> Sent from my iPad
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-- 
______________

Jeffrey Fongemie

<http://instagram.com/jfongemie>