[Public-List] Norscot shaft seal--lip seal replacement?

Randy Katz via Public-List public-list at lists.alberg30.org
Thu Jun 25 19:52:49 PDT 2015

Greetings to Anders and Glenn,

Many thanks for your responses, both of which are helpful. The details
about how removal of the old seals might go is really useful. I'm trying to
imagine whether or not I can accomplish this lying head down in the port
lazarette. I sure hope so.

Glenn's tip about the shaft being able to rotate freely indicating probably
close alignment is helpful too. It presently is like that.

I'm thinking about this for the time being. Meanwhile, the reservoir fluid
is leaking out into the bilge more and more, indicating the job needs to be
done. (The leaking is a significant change from even a couple of years ago.
I believe they're due to wear--it's been 12 years or so, and I may have let
the reservoir go empty for some hours at some point. )

Again--Many thanks for your comments!

Best Regards,
#249 Simple Gifts
Seattle/Bellingham, WA

> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> Message: 1
> Date: Tue, 23 Jun 2015 17:16:06 -0700
> From: Randy Katz via Public-List <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
> To: A-30 List <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
> Subject: [Public-List] Norscot shaft seal--lip seal replacement?
> Message-ID:
>         <
> CAFqGGGgCUbFoNZQE0PqhK8eHvRqce796qrbD4iubWzAgp667SA at mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8
> Greetings, Albergers,
> I have a Norscot shaft seal that came with the Universal 3MB 30 diesel
> engine. It's time to replace the seals. (See links and info below.)
> A couple of questions--
> 1. I'm wondering, if I simply disconnect the shaft from the transmission,
> remove the old seals, install the new ones, then reconnect the shaft, will
> shaft/engine realignment be required? Is there any chance it will go back
> together as it was so that won't be necessary?
> 2. Has anyone done this before who might have basic pointers? I know this
> is going to be a major pain, what with limited access and all, but I'm
> willing to give it a shot.
> Many Thanks,
> Randy Katz
> #249    Simple Gifts
> Seattle/Bellingham WA
> %%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%
> <http://www.norscotshaftseal.com/index.html>
> http://www.norscotshaftseal.com/index.html
> These seals are good for about 1000 hrs. before they start leaking. (Now
> have 1200+ hrs with leaks of ATF fluid from the reservoir.)
> Video on how to install a PSS shaft seal?very useful for basics of a
> similar process: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3UvyF-NRooQ
> ------------------------------
> Message: 2
> Date: Wed, 24 Jun 2015 08:29:59 -0400
> From: Anders Bro via Public-List <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
> To: Randy Katz <randy.katz50 at gmail.com>,        Alberg 30 Public List --
>         open to all <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
> Subject: Re: [Public-List] Norscot shaft seal--lip seal replacement?
> Message-ID: <558AA2C7.9010207 at gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed
> Hi Randy,
> You might want to pass by my note here, as I don't have any experience
> with replacing this seal in particular, but I have rebuilt a few
> engines  in which shaft seals are used, and the experience that I
> gleaned from these efforts may be pertinent?
> In older engines (think pre-70s), the shaft seals could be string
> packings that were threaded into a cap. Newer engines use a seal that is
> a part of a steel cup that gets pressed into the bore that surrounds the
> shaft. (There is an easier configuration in which the lip seal is a
> rubber piece with no steel can - much easier to remove.) I expect that
> this is what your seal is like? In any case, the first job is to get the
> seal out with a hooked tool (that will definitely ruin the old seal)
> that you can typically get at Napa Auto Parts or some such car store. It
> is a bitch to get it out with the shaft still in place, as if you score
> the shaft, you have permanently made a leaking seal as the shaft is no
> longer smooth in the area of the contact seal. Putting the new seal in
> is pretty easy as long as (this is important) you tap it in straight.
> BUT! (isn't there always one?) One old timer who had done a lot of
> rebuilds passed this perspective along to me: Why does a seal go out? If
> everything is aligned and concentric, there is no reason for a seal to
> wear. (The only exception to this is maybe if the seal is not lubricated
> or if it is made of inferior material so that it rots, cracks, etc.) On
> the other hand if the shaft develops some play then the seal will
> eventually leak. So a leak in a shaft seal may be an indication of worn
> bearings. And if you have worn bearings, then a new seal won't last too
> long, and you might be advised to take the unit out and do a thorough job.
> In light of this thought, you might want to consider putting a dial
> gauge on the shaft and trying to wiggle the shaft (perpendicular to its
> axis), and if you get more than 0.001" movement (I really don't know
> what the spec would be, so this is a guess on my part) then you might
> want to replace the shaft bearings as well (yes, pulling the tranny - No
> fun :-( ).
> I know these thoughts are not specifically directed towards the 3MB, but
> I hope they help you assess your needs.
> Do tell us how it goes! (and all power to you)
> Anders
> ------------------------------
> Message: 8
> Date: Wed, 24 Jun 2015 08:29:32 -0700
> From: Glenn via Public-List <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
> To: Anders Bro <abro.gtu at gmail.com>,    Alberg 30 Public List -- open to
>         all <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
> Cc: Randy Katz <randy.katz50 at gmail.com>
> Subject: Re: [Public-List] Norscot shaft seal--lip seal replacement?
> Message-ID: <279C5A01-8C25-4CBE-BB0A-534E4D1EBD1F at comcast.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain;       charset=utf-8
> Don't know about your particular shaft seal assembly, but it wouldn't hurt
> to check your alignment when bolting everything back up -  the major risk
> with misaligned shaft is it puts excessive side play on the transition
> which can cause the transmission seals to go out and leak tranny fluid into
> the bilge, or even cause premature transmission failure.  Generally .002"
> is considered good alignment between shaft and coupler fitting.  If the
> shaft will rotate very easily  in the coupling with one or two fingers it
> likely is within .002"
> Sent from my iPhone

More information about the Public-List mailing list