[Public-List] Chainplates

Thu Nov 5 08:59:55 PST 2015

Folks,

Wes, nice photos on Facebook regarding the chainplate work.  Looking good,
not to mention how good the toe rail looks as well.

Forgive my ignorance, but what is the purpose of chainplate covers ?
What do chainplate covers do?

Jonathan

On Wed, Nov 4, 2015 at 6:57 PM, Wes Gardner via Public-List <
public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:

> Hi All,
>
> Well, I just finished replacing all my chainplate bolts with 5/16. Took a
> little more than half a day but everything is secure (other than the rig is
> no longer tuned), chainplate covers have been rebedded in polysulphide.
> When drilling the knees and bulkhead, all I got was good clean wood and
> glass!  There was also some sort of cotton like stuff in the  "slot" where
> the chainplate passes through the deck.  Dunno if this is original or not.
> My chainplates have the Schaefer covers and to someone's credit, have been
> well caulked as everything is REALLY dry.  Hopefully, my caulk job results
> in similar performance.
>
> The chainplates for the uppers didn't quite sit flat against the bulkhead
> because of the tabbing, I created a flat spot with thickened epoxy.
>
> I will argue for ALL the bolts facing the correct direction-that is with
> the HEAD of the bolt at the chainplate end and the nut with fender washer
> on the knee or bulkhead. This lets the shoulder of the shoulder bolt bear
> at the chainplate.  If you have them facing the other direction, the
> threads will bear at the chainplate which will NOT be as strong in shear.
>
> The drill press enlarges the hole in the chainplate in about 20 seconds!
>
> Wes
>
> > On Nov 4, 2015, at 6:05 PM, Randy Katz via Public-List <
> public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:
> >
> > Hi,
> > Yes, I've heard that 5/16 is the way to go. I also understand that
> > alternating the directions of the bolts is the way to go--like this: top
> > bolt, head sticking out; second bolt, nut end sticking out; third bolt,
> > head sticking out.
> >
> > Who knows?
> >
> > Randy Katz
> > #249 Simple Gifts
> > Seattle/Bellingham, WA
> >
> >
> >
> >> Message: 3
> >> Date: Tue, 3 Nov 2015 23:02:35 -0500
> >> From: Wes Gardner via Public-List <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
> >> To: Glenn Brooks <brooks.glenn at comcast.net>
> >> Cc: Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all
> >>        <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
> >> Subject: Re: [Public-List] chainplates
> >> Message-ID: <C41E5648-59D2-4DE2-AF93-7E968758928C at gmail.com>
> >> Content-Type: text/plain;       charset=us-ascii
> >>
> >> Hey All,
> >>
> >> Did I also mention that someone did in truth "upgrade" to 1/4" shoulder
> >> bolts but then proceeded to run the bolt in "backwards" such that the
> >> chainplate still bore on the nut end and therefore the threaded portion
> of
> >> the shoulder bolt, in effect doing absolutely nothing.
> >>
> >> Make sure your bolts are in the "right" way....
> >>
> >> I assume most folks have upgraded to 5/16"????
> >>
> >> Wes
> >>
> >>>> On Nov 3, 2015, at 9:01 PM, Glenn Brooks <brooks.glenn at comcast.net>
> >>> wrote:
> >>>
> >>> Wes,  no reason to bond the chain plate.  Far better to reinforce the
> >> knee for the forward lower chainplates with several additional layers of
> >> fiberglass mat and roving, then drill, bed and reinstall the chainplates
> >> with 5/16" bolts.  I actually anchored all my upper chainplates with one
> >> 3/8" bolt, and then added 5/16" bolts.  The biggest risk after
> reinstalling
> >> the chainplates with larger bolts is that the knee might pull away from
> the
> >> hull. Hence the preventative measure of adding DG reinforcement.
> >>>
> >>> It's perfectly fine, actually necessary, to bed the thru deck area
> where
> >> the chain plates emerge from the deck, with 4200 or 5200. The material
> >> flexes a bit and keeps out water- preventing rot and delamination in the
> >> knees and bulkheads.
> >>>
> >>> Glenn B.
> >>>
> >>> Sent from my iPad
> >>>
> >>>> On Nov 3, 2015, at 5:44 PM, Wes Gardner via Public-List <
> >> public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:
> >>>>
> >>>> Yes, at first I was considering bonding the chain plate to either the
> >> knee or bulkhead but I think maybe the crevice corrosion factor may
> prevent
> >> that.
> >>>>
> >>>> Sent from my iPhone
> >>>>
> >>>>> On Nov 3, 2015, at 7:10 PM, Randy Katz via Public-List <
> >> public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Greetings,
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Was it Wes talking about replacing bolts and gooping over with 5200?
> >> If I
> >>>>> understand the comment correctly, I'd suggest using something other
> >> than
> >>>>> 5200 so access to the bolts could easily be had at a later date.
> Also,
> >>>>> leaving the SS hardware open to the air as much as possible can
> reduce
> >>>>> possibilities of crevice  corrosion.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> My apologies if I misunderstood the post!
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Regards,
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Randy Katz
> >>>>> #249 Simple Gifts
> >>>>> Bellingham/Seattle WA
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-- 
Jonathan M Bresler
Alberg 30 #262
Annapolis/Eastport MD