[Public-List] Chainplates

Thu Nov 5 11:13:37 PST 2015

Chainplate covers do a couple of things - make the transition from deck to
chainplate "pretty" (think "trim") functionally, they add extra caulking
space so you have a better chance of getting a good, tight, waterproof seal
and the chainplate/deck interface.  This is always a source of potential
leaking with potentially catastrophic results, if not expensive ones.
Personally, I would really keep after these things as replacing bulkheads
and hanging knees might not be something one wants to do on his/her days
off. :-)

On Thu, Nov 5, 2015 at 11:59 AM, Jonathan Bresler <262alberg30 at gmail.com>
wrote:

> Folks,
>
> Wes, nice photos on Facebook regarding the chainplate work.  Looking good,
> not to mention how good the toe rail looks as well.
>
> Forgive my ignorance, but what is the purpose of chainplate covers ?
> What do chainplate covers do?
>
> Jonathan
>
> On Wed, Nov 4, 2015 at 6:57 PM, Wes Gardner via Public-List <
> public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:
>
>> Hi All,
>>
>> Well, I just finished replacing all my chainplate bolts with 5/16. Took a
>> little more than half a day but everything is secure (other than the rig is
>> no longer tuned), chainplate covers have been rebedded in polysulphide.
>> When drilling the knees and bulkhead, all I got was good clean wood and
>> glass!  There was also some sort of cotton like stuff in the  "slot" where
>> the chainplate passes through the deck.  Dunno if this is original or not.
>> My chainplates have the Schaefer covers and to someone's credit, have been
>> well caulked as everything is REALLY dry.  Hopefully, my caulk job results
>> in similar performance.
>>
>> The chainplates for the uppers didn't quite sit flat against the bulkhead
>> because of the tabbing, I created a flat spot with thickened epoxy.
>>
>> I will argue for ALL the bolts facing the correct direction-that is with
>> the HEAD of the bolt at the chainplate end and the nut with fender washer
>> on the knee or bulkhead. This lets the shoulder of the shoulder bolt bear
>> at the chainplate.  If you have them facing the other direction, the
>> threads will bear at the chainplate which will NOT be as strong in shear.
>>
>> The drill press enlarges the hole in the chainplate in about 20 seconds!
>>
>> Wes
>>
>> > On Nov 4, 2015, at 6:05 PM, Randy Katz via Public-List <
>> public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:
>> >
>> > Hi,
>> > Yes, I've heard that 5/16 is the way to go. I also understand that
>> > alternating the directions of the bolts is the way to go--like this: top
>> > bolt, head sticking out; second bolt, nut end sticking out; third bolt,
>> > head sticking out.
>> >
>> > Who knows?
>> >
>> > Randy Katz
>> > #249 Simple Gifts
>> > Seattle/Bellingham, WA
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >> Message: 3
>> >> Date: Tue, 3 Nov 2015 23:02:35 -0500
>> >> From: Wes Gardner via Public-List <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
>> >> To: Glenn Brooks <brooks.glenn at comcast.net>
>> >> Cc: Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all
>> >>        <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
>> >> Subject: Re: [Public-List] chainplates
>> >> Message-ID: <C41E5648-59D2-4DE2-AF93-7E968758928C at gmail.com>
>> >> Content-Type: text/plain;       charset=us-ascii
>> >>
>> >> Hey All,
>> >>
>> >> Did I also mention that someone did in truth "upgrade" to 1/4" shoulder
>> >> bolts but then proceeded to run the bolt in "backwards" such that the
>> >> chainplate still bore on the nut end and therefore the threaded
>> portion of
>> >> the shoulder bolt, in effect doing absolutely nothing.
>> >>
>> >> Make sure your bolts are in the "right" way....
>> >>
>> >> I assume most folks have upgraded to 5/16"????
>> >>
>> >> Wes
>> >>
>> >>>> On Nov 3, 2015, at 9:01 PM, Glenn Brooks <brooks.glenn at comcast.net>
>> >>> wrote:
>> >>>
>> >>> Wes,  no reason to bond the chain plate.  Far better to reinforce the
>> >> knee for the forward lower chainplates with several additional layers
>> of
>> >> fiberglass mat and roving, then drill, bed and reinstall the
>> chainplates
>> >> with 5/16" bolts.  I actually anchored all my upper chainplates with
>> one
>> >> 3/8" bolt, and then added 5/16" bolts.  The biggest risk after
>> reinstalling
>> >> the chainplates with larger bolts is that the knee might pull away
>> from the
>> >> hull. Hence the preventative measure of adding DG reinforcement.
>> >>>
>> >>> It's perfectly fine, actually necessary, to bed the thru deck area
>> where
>> >> the chain plates emerge from the deck, with 4200 or 5200. The material
>> >> flexes a bit and keeps out water- preventing rot and delamination in
>> the
>> >> knees and bulkheads.
>> >>>
>> >>> Glenn B.
>> >>>
>> >>> Sent from my iPad
>> >>>
>> >>>> On Nov 3, 2015, at 5:44 PM, Wes Gardner via Public-List <
>> >> public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:
>> >>>>
>> >>>> Yes, at first I was considering bonding the chain plate to either the
>> >> knee or bulkhead but I think maybe the crevice corrosion factor may
>> prevent
>> >> that.
>> >>>>
>> >>>> Sent from my iPhone
>> >>>>
>> >>>>> On Nov 3, 2015, at 7:10 PM, Randy Katz via Public-List <
>> >> public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:
>> >>>>>
>> >>>>> Greetings,
>> >>>>>
>> >>>>> Was it Wes talking about replacing bolts and gooping over with 5200?
>> >> If I
>> >>>>> understand the comment correctly, I'd suggest using something other
>> >> than
>> >>>>> 5200 so access to the bolts could easily be had at a later date.
>> Also,
>> >>>>> leaving the SS hardware open to the air as much as possible can
>> reduce
>> >>>>> possibilities of crevice  corrosion.
>> >>>>>
>> >>>>> My apologies if I misunderstood the post!
>> >>>>>
>> >>>>> Regards,
>> >>>>>
>> >>>>> Randy Katz
>> >>>>> #249 Simple Gifts
>> >>>>> Bellingham/Seattle WA
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>
>
>
> --
> Jonathan M Bresler
> Alberg 30 #262
> Annapolis/Eastport MD
>