[Public-List] Chainplates

Thu Nov 5 11:32:43 PST 2015

Hi All,

This time, I went the polysulphide route (BoatLife) when recaulking the
chainplates just because it's what I've always done but I've heard alot of
talk about butyl tape.  I couldn't tell what had been used previously,
something white...if it was 5200, I didn't tear any deck away when remove
the covers so maybe it wasn't 52. :-)

Wes

On Thu, Nov 5, 2015 at 2:13 PM, Wes Gardner <wesgardner1952 at gmail.com>
wrote:

> Chainplate covers do a couple of things - make the transition from deck to
> chainplate "pretty" (think "trim") functionally, they add extra caulking
> space so you have a better chance of getting a good, tight, waterproof seal
> and the chainplate/deck interface.  This is always a source of potential
> leaking with potentially catastrophic results, if not expensive ones.
> Personally, I would really keep after these things as replacing bulkheads
> and hanging knees might not be something one wants to do on his/her days
> off. :-)
>
> On Thu, Nov 5, 2015 at 11:59 AM, Jonathan Bresler <262alberg30 at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
>> Folks,
>>
>> Wes, nice photos on Facebook regarding the chainplate work.  Looking
>> good, not to mention how good the toe rail looks as well.
>>
>> Forgive my ignorance, but what is the purpose of chainplate covers ?
>> What do chainplate covers do?
>>
>> Jonathan
>>
>> On Wed, Nov 4, 2015 at 6:57 PM, Wes Gardner via Public-List <
>> public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:
>>
>>> Hi All,
>>>
>>> Well, I just finished replacing all my chainplate bolts with 5/16. Took
>>> a little more than half a day but everything is secure (other than the rig
>>> is no longer tuned), chainplate covers have been rebedded in polysulphide.
>>> When drilling the knees and bulkhead, all I got was good clean wood and
>>> glass!  There was also some sort of cotton like stuff in the  "slot" where
>>> the chainplate passes through the deck.  Dunno if this is original or not.
>>> My chainplates have the Schaefer covers and to someone's credit, have been
>>> well caulked as everything is REALLY dry.  Hopefully, my caulk job results
>>> in similar performance.
>>>
>>> The chainplates for the uppers didn't quite sit flat against the
>>> bulkhead because of the tabbing, I created a flat spot with thickened epoxy.
>>>
>>> I will argue for ALL the bolts facing the correct direction-that is with
>>> the HEAD of the bolt at the chainplate end and the nut with fender washer
>>> on the knee or bulkhead. This lets the shoulder of the shoulder bolt bear
>>> at the chainplate.  If you have them facing the other direction, the
>>> threads will bear at the chainplate which will NOT be as strong in shear.
>>>
>>> The drill press enlarges the hole in the chainplate in about 20 seconds!
>>>
>>> Wes
>>>
>>> > On Nov 4, 2015, at 6:05 PM, Randy Katz via Public-List <
>>> public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:
>>> >
>>> > Hi,
>>> > Yes, I've heard that 5/16 is the way to go. I also understand that
>>> > alternating the directions of the bolts is the way to go--like this:
>>> top
>>> > bolt, head sticking out; second bolt, nut end sticking out; third bolt,
>>> > head sticking out.
>>> >
>>> > Who knows?
>>> >
>>> > Randy Katz
>>> > #249 Simple Gifts
>>> > Seattle/Bellingham, WA
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >> Message: 3
>>> >> Date: Tue, 3 Nov 2015 23:02:35 -0500
>>> >> From: Wes Gardner via Public-List <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
>>> >> To: Glenn Brooks <brooks.glenn at comcast.net>
>>> >> Cc: Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all
>>> >>        <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
>>> >> Subject: Re: [Public-List] chainplates
>>> >> Message-ID: <C41E5648-59D2-4DE2-AF93-7E968758928C at gmail.com>
>>> >> Content-Type: text/plain;       charset=us-ascii
>>> >>
>>> >> Hey All,
>>> >>
>>> >> Did I also mention that someone did in truth "upgrade" to 1/4"
>>> shoulder
>>> >> bolts but then proceeded to run the bolt in "backwards" such that the
>>> >> chainplate still bore on the nut end and therefore the threaded
>>> portion of
>>> >> the shoulder bolt, in effect doing absolutely nothing.
>>> >>
>>> >> Make sure your bolts are in the "right" way....
>>> >>
>>> >> I assume most folks have upgraded to 5/16"????
>>> >>
>>> >> Wes
>>> >>
>>> >>>> On Nov 3, 2015, at 9:01 PM, Glenn Brooks <brooks.glenn at comcast.net>
>>> >>> wrote:
>>> >>>
>>> >>> Wes,  no reason to bond the chain plate.  Far better to reinforce the
>>> >> knee for the forward lower chainplates with several additional layers
>>> of
>>> >> fiberglass mat and roving, then drill, bed and reinstall the
>>> chainplates
>>> >> with 5/16" bolts.  I actually anchored all my upper chainplates with
>>> one
>>> >> 3/8" bolt, and then added 5/16" bolts.  The biggest risk after
>>> reinstalling
>>> >> the chainplates with larger bolts is that the knee might pull away
>>> from the
>>> >> hull. Hence the preventative measure of adding DG reinforcement.
>>> >>>
>>> >>> It's perfectly fine, actually necessary, to bed the thru deck area
>>> where
>>> >> the chain plates emerge from the deck, with 4200 or 5200. The material
>>> >> flexes a bit and keeps out water- preventing rot and delamination in
>>> the
>>> >> knees and bulkheads.
>>> >>>
>>> >>> Glenn B.
>>> >>>
>>> >>> Sent from my iPad
>>> >>>
>>> >>>> On Nov 3, 2015, at 5:44 PM, Wes Gardner via Public-List <
>>> >> public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:
>>> >>>>
>>> >>>> Yes, at first I was considering bonding the chain plate to either
>>> the
>>> >> knee or bulkhead but I think maybe the crevice corrosion factor may
>>> prevent
>>> >> that.
>>> >>>>
>>> >>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>> >>>>
>>> >>>>> On Nov 3, 2015, at 7:10 PM, Randy Katz via Public-List <
>>> >> public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:
>>> >>>>>
>>> >>>>> Greetings,
>>> >>>>>
>>> >>>>> Was it Wes talking about replacing bolts and gooping over with
>>> 5200?
>>> >> If I
>>> >>>>> understand the comment correctly, I'd suggest using something other
>>> >> than
>>> >>>>> 5200 so access to the bolts could easily be had at a later date.
>>> Also,
>>> >>>>> leaving the SS hardware open to the air as much as possible can
>>> reduce
>>> >>>>> possibilities of crevice  corrosion.
>>> >>>>>
>>> >>>>> My apologies if I misunderstood the post!
>>> >>>>>
>>> >>>>> Regards,
>>> >>>>>
>>> >>>>> Randy Katz
>>> >>>>> #249 Simple Gifts
>>> >>>>> Bellingham/Seattle WA
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>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> Jonathan M Bresler
>> Alberg 30 #262
>> Annapolis/Eastport MD
>>
>
>