[Public-List] Chainplates

Thu Nov 5 12:15:20 PST 2015

Yes indeed.
Keeping after these things (chainplates and covers, etc.) is far preferable
to replacing bulkheads and hanging knees.

Jonathan

On Thu, Nov 5, 2015 at 2:32 PM, Wes Gardner <wesgardner1952 at gmail.com>
wrote:

> Hi All,
>
> This time, I went the polysulphide route (BoatLife) when recaulking the
> chainplates just because it's what I've always done but I've heard alot of
> talk about butyl tape.  I couldn't tell what had been used previously,
> something white...if it was 5200, I didn't tear any deck away when remove
> the covers so maybe it wasn't 52. :-)
>
> Wes
>
> On Thu, Nov 5, 2015 at 2:13 PM, Wes Gardner <wesgardner1952 at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
>> Chainplate covers do a couple of things - make the transition from deck
>> to chainplate "pretty" (think "trim") functionally, they add extra caulking
>> space so you have a better chance of getting a good, tight, waterproof seal
>> and the chainplate/deck interface.  This is always a source of potential
>> leaking with potentially catastrophic results, if not expensive ones.
>> Personally, I would really keep after these things as replacing bulkheads
>> and hanging knees might not be something one wants to do on his/her days
>> off. :-)
>>
>> On Thu, Nov 5, 2015 at 11:59 AM, Jonathan Bresler <262alberg30 at gmail.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Folks,
>>>
>>> Wes, nice photos on Facebook regarding the chainplate work.  Looking
>>> good, not to mention how good the toe rail looks as well.
>>>
>>> Forgive my ignorance, but what is the purpose of chainplate covers ?
>>> What do chainplate covers do?
>>>
>>> Jonathan
>>>
>>> On Wed, Nov 4, 2015 at 6:57 PM, Wes Gardner via Public-List <
>>> public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Hi All,
>>>>
>>>> Well, I just finished replacing all my chainplate bolts with 5/16. Took
>>>> a little more than half a day but everything is secure (other than the rig
>>>> is no longer tuned), chainplate covers have been rebedded in polysulphide.
>>>> When drilling the knees and bulkhead, all I got was good clean wood and
>>>> glass!  There was also some sort of cotton like stuff in the  "slot" where
>>>> the chainplate passes through the deck.  Dunno if this is original or not.
>>>> My chainplates have the Schaefer covers and to someone's credit, have been
>>>> well caulked as everything is REALLY dry.  Hopefully, my caulk job results
>>>> in similar performance.
>>>>
>>>> The chainplates for the uppers didn't quite sit flat against the
>>>> bulkhead because of the tabbing, I created a flat spot with thickened epoxy.
>>>>
>>>> I will argue for ALL the bolts facing the correct direction-that is
>>>> with the HEAD of the bolt at the chainplate end and the nut with fender
>>>> washer on the knee or bulkhead. This lets the shoulder of the shoulder bolt
>>>> bear at the chainplate.  If you have them facing the other direction, the
>>>> threads will bear at the chainplate which will NOT be as strong in shear.
>>>>
>>>> The drill press enlarges the hole in the chainplate in about 20 seconds!
>>>>
>>>> Wes
>>>>
>>>> > On Nov 4, 2015, at 6:05 PM, Randy Katz via Public-List <
>>>> public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:
>>>> >
>>>> > Hi,
>>>> > Yes, I've heard that 5/16 is the way to go. I also understand that
>>>> > alternating the directions of the bolts is the way to go--like this:
>>>> top
>>>> > bolt, head sticking out; second bolt, nut end sticking out; third
>>>> bolt,
>>>> > head sticking out.
>>>> >
>>>> > Who knows?
>>>> >
>>>> > Randy Katz
>>>> > #249 Simple Gifts
>>>> > Seattle/Bellingham, WA
>>>> >
>>>> >
>>>> >
>>>> >> Message: 3
>>>> >> Date: Tue, 3 Nov 2015 23:02:35 -0500
>>>> >> From: Wes Gardner via Public-List <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
>>>> >> To: Glenn Brooks <brooks.glenn at comcast.net>
>>>> >> Cc: Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all
>>>> >>        <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
>>>> >> Subject: Re: [Public-List] chainplates
>>>> >> Message-ID: <C41E5648-59D2-4DE2-AF93-7E968758928C at gmail.com>
>>>> >> Content-Type: text/plain;       charset=us-ascii
>>>> >>
>>>> >> Hey All,
>>>> >>
>>>> >> Did I also mention that someone did in truth "upgrade" to 1/4"
>>>> shoulder
>>>> >> bolts but then proceeded to run the bolt in "backwards" such that the
>>>> >> chainplate still bore on the nut end and therefore the threaded
>>>> portion of
>>>> >> the shoulder bolt, in effect doing absolutely nothing.
>>>> >>
>>>> >> Make sure your bolts are in the "right" way....
>>>> >>
>>>> >> I assume most folks have upgraded to 5/16"????
>>>> >>
>>>> >> Wes
>>>> >>
>>>> >>>> On Nov 3, 2015, at 9:01 PM, Glenn Brooks <brooks.glenn at comcast.net
>>>> >
>>>> >>> wrote:
>>>> >>>
>>>> >>> Wes,  no reason to bond the chain plate.  Far better to reinforce
>>>> the
>>>> >> knee for the forward lower chainplates with several additional
>>>> layers of
>>>> >> fiberglass mat and roving, then drill, bed and reinstall the
>>>> chainplates
>>>> >> with 5/16" bolts.  I actually anchored all my upper chainplates with
>>>> one
>>>> >> 3/8" bolt, and then added 5/16" bolts.  The biggest risk after
>>>> reinstalling
>>>> >> the chainplates with larger bolts is that the knee might pull away
>>>> from the
>>>> >> hull. Hence the preventative measure of adding DG reinforcement.
>>>> >>>
>>>> >>> It's perfectly fine, actually necessary, to bed the thru deck area
>>>> where
>>>> >> the chain plates emerge from the deck, with 4200 or 5200. The
>>>> material
>>>> >> flexes a bit and keeps out water- preventing rot and delamination in
>>>> the
>>>> >> knees and bulkheads.
>>>> >>>
>>>> >>> Glenn B.
>>>> >>>
>>>> >>> Sent from my iPad
>>>> >>>
>>>> >>>> On Nov 3, 2015, at 5:44 PM, Wes Gardner via Public-List <
>>>> >> public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:
>>>> >>>>
>>>> >>>> Yes, at first I was considering bonding the chain plate to either
>>>> the
>>>> >> knee or bulkhead but I think maybe the crevice corrosion factor may
>>>> prevent
>>>> >> that.
>>>> >>>>
>>>> >>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>> >>>>
>>>> >>>>> On Nov 3, 2015, at 7:10 PM, Randy Katz via Public-List <
>>>> >> public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:
>>>> >>>>>
>>>> >>>>> Greetings,
>>>> >>>>>
>>>> >>>>> Was it Wes talking about replacing bolts and gooping over with
>>>> 5200?
>>>> >> If I
>>>> >>>>> understand the comment correctly, I'd suggest using something
>>>> other
>>>> >> than
>>>> >>>>> 5200 so access to the bolts could easily be had at a later date.
>>>> Also,
>>>> >>>>> leaving the SS hardware open to the air as much as possible can
>>>> reduce
>>>> >>>>> possibilities of crevice  corrosion.
>>>> >>>>>
>>>> >>>>> My apologies if I misunderstood the post!
>>>> >>>>>
>>>> >>>>> Regards,
>>>> >>>>>
>>>> >>>>> Randy Katz
>>>> >>>>> #249 Simple Gifts
>>>> >>>>> Bellingham/Seattle WA
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>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> --
>>> Jonathan M Bresler
>>> Alberg 30 #262
>>> Annapolis/Eastport MD
>>>
>>
>>
>

-- 
Jonathan M Bresler
Alberg 30 #262
Annapolis/Eastport MD