[Public-List] What wood....

Mon Feb 15 07:14:03 PST 2016

At $1.50 US per board foot vs teak at $25. or more it is certainly worth
considering.

On Mon, Feb 15, 2016 at 9:31 AM, Gordon Laco via Public-List <
public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:

> Good morning Anders -
>
> I've used black locust extensively in marine applications professionally
> for
> many years.  It's a superb marine hardwood.  I have no reservations about
> it
> at all.
>
> I suspect what you've read below are comments from people unfamiliar with
> marine work...  Who cares about driving nails into it?  And it's hardness
> is
> just like white oak...that's a very very good thing.
>
> Cheers -
>
> Gord  #426 Surprise
>
>
> On 2016-02-15, 8:56 AM, "Anders Bro" <abro.gtu at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > Hi Gord,
> > I have heard it rumored (backed by Googling it) that black locust,
> although
> > incredibly rot resistant, is super tough, hard to cut, and dulls tools
> fast.
> > There is one report of the difficulty of driving nails further than 1/2"
> into
> > the wood. So although it would make a great wood for boats, it might be
> a bit
> > tough to work?
> >
> > Also (and I am not sure of this) the heart wood might be dark(?) whereas
> the
> > sap wood is as you say, quite light colored.
> >
> > In the Sierra this stuff grew like weeds, and aside from fence posts no
> one
> > would use it for anything but burning. It was hard on the chain saw.
> (and was
> > it hard to split? I forget)
> >
> > So I might suggest you get a scrap and see how it works before you spend
> too
> > many boat bucks on this wood.
> >
> > Anders
> >
> > Sent from my iPhone
> >
> >> On Feb 15, 2016, at 8:34 AM, Gordon Laco via Public-List
> >> <public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:
> >>
> >> Good morning Greg.
> >>
> >> Mahogany is a good choice because it it relatively soft and therefore
> easy to
> >> work.  It also takes glue and varnish well.  When using any wood for
> trim, be
> >> sure to apply varnish to the undersurface before final installation in
> order
> >> to prevent water absorption from creating trouble later.
> >>
> >> If you like blonde wood, black locust is a good choice.  It's got
> terrific
> >> rot resistance, takes glue better than white oak but has the same blonde
> >> colour when varnished. I'm thinking Surprise's new toe rails may be of
> black
> >> locust.
> >>
> >> Gord Surprise #426
> >>
> >>> On 2016-02-15, at 8:21 AM, JS via Public-List
> >>> <public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> I am no wood worker and have very little knowledge on the stuff but I
> have
> >>> seen guys use Sapele wood to repack teak on other refits. My
> understanding
> >>> is that it in the mahogany family.
> >>> There was an Alberg in my marina a few years back #449 that had a
> beautiful
> >>> Ipe toe rail. Ipe is used in decking and relatively inexpensive
> >>> These are just a few of the example of teak alternatives I have seen.
> >>> Good luck with your project
> >>> Jason#457Www.svsalacia.blogspot.com
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE smartphone
> >>>
> >>> -------- Original message --------
> >>> From: Greg Dawson via Public-List <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
> >>> Date: 02/15/2016  7:34 AM  (GMT-05:00)
> >>> To: public-list at lists.alberg30.org
> >>> Subject: [Public-List] What wood....
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> Hi Guys
> >>>
> >>> Alternatives to teak? The woodwork on our boat is in poor shape, the
> hatch
> >>> covers are falling to pieces and the toe rail has been cut in a couple
> of
> >>> places. The teak trim on the stern is snapped in two and the boards
> either
> >>> side of the cockpit are badly weathered. To add to this the mild steel
> bolts
> >>> holding our toe rail down are so rusted that they are snapping when
> you try
> >>> to adjust them.
> >>>
> >>> I'm looking to replace the toe rail with an aluminum system once I find
> >>> something appropriate, does anyone have any ideas? Also, replacement
> teak
> >>> for the hatches etc is simply out of our price range (lots of other
> stuff to
> >>> buy with that money) and I am looking at alternatives, any ideas? Is
> there
> >>> any reason for instance that I can't use ash or cherry provided that I
> >>> accept the additional work of varnishing each season?
> >>>
> >>> Finally, on the subject of mast beams, is there an engineered drawing
> >>> kicking around that I could work off to produce my new beam. Currently
> it
> >>> has the Frankenstein bolts and aluminum plates. Nothing is quite
> lining up
> >>> as it should and I am wary of using the damaged beam as a template. I
> have
> >>> to renew the bulkheads as they are rotten around the chain plates so I
> might
> >>> as well do the beam to at the same time. Any ideas?
> >>>
> >>> Thanks
> >>>
> >>> Greg.
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