[Public-List] stern tube

[Kris Coward via Public-List]

Whereabouts in Alaska are you? I went up for a vacation a couple of
Februaries ago, and spent most of it fatbiking, hiking, and camping up
around Fairbanks (though I'm pretty sure you'd be on the coast).

Cheers,
Kris

On Thu, Jul 14, 2016 at 11:13:30AM -0800, Hernán Scarnichia via Public-List wrote:
> Charles,
> thanks for the advice and offering to borrow your crate. I'm in Alaska
> though though so ill have to make my own crate.I think #414 might be the
> most northern Alberg 30? anybody higher than latitude 60?
> some more questions:
> 
> After removing the engine, do you remove the shaft too? or just remove the
> prop and slide the cutlass housing and stern tube back?.
> 
> When you are putting the tube back and caulking from the inside... how do
> you get the tube to align with the shaft line? especially if the engine is
> gone and not holding the shaft in alignment as a reference... will the tube
> just align itself when you screw the cutlass housing tight? or is it just a
> matter of aligning the engine to the tube afterwards?
> 
> Thanks
> Hernan
> 
> On Thu, Jul 14, 2016 at 9:25 AM, charles pleisse via Public-List <
> public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:
> 
> > It will be made immensely easier by removing the engine. Once that is out
> > of the way, you simply remove the cutlass housing, the stern tube should
> > come out with it.  (Good time to replace the cutlass bearing)
> > Clean it all up being sure to get down to clean fiberglass on the internal
> > surfaces of the hull surrounding the opening where the tube comes through.
> > The Dolfinite that was originally used is a bit stubborn to clean off
> > completely and will foul the new bedding if completely removed.
> > It was recommended to me to just bed the entire cutlass housing/stern tube
> > assembly with 5200.  This is where I deviated from advice given to me. The
> > permanence of 5200 scares me a bit.   Once everything is clean, reinstall
> > the tube and cutlass dry.  Then bed the tube from inside using 5200.  5200
> > has a suggested max bead thickness of 1/2" this means it needs to be
> > applied in layers no thicker than 1/2" and allowed to dry before applying
> > another layer.  I used about 2-1/2 tubes worth on the inside of the hull.
> > Once the 5200 around the stern tube has cured, remove the cutlass housing
> > and bed it in something less permanent that is recommended for use below
> > the water line.  I think I used Boatlife.  Then just toss the engine back
> > in and away you go, simple.  Seriously, I have an A4 which is rather simple
> > to remove. I probably would have been a bit more reluctant with a diesel.
> > I do recommend getting help with the realignment of the engine.  I
> > attempted that on my own and I'm not too sure I got it spot on.  I have a
> > come-along winch to hoist the engine with and a cradle I made that fits in
> > the cabin sole you're welcome to borrow if you think they may help.  Happy
> > to provide any photos offline if you think they may help.
> >
> >
> > Charles Pleisse
> > Sookie #221
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-- 
Kris Coward					http://unripe.melon.org/
GPG Fingerprint: 2BF3 957D 310A FEEC 4733  830E 21A4 05C7 1FEB 12B3