[Public-List] stern tube

[Andrew Johns via Public-List]

Are you in Seward? I saw a nice A30 when I was up there in July 2012.

On Thu, Jul 14, 2016 at 3:56 PM, Kris Coward via Public-List <
public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:

>
> Whereabouts in Alaska are you? I went up for a vacation a couple of
> Februaries ago, and spent most of it fatbiking, hiking, and camping up
> around Fairbanks (though I'm pretty sure you'd be on the coast).
>
> Cheers,
> Kris
>
> On Thu, Jul 14, 2016 at 11:13:30AM -0800, Hernán Scarnichia via
> Public-List wrote:
> > Charles,
> > thanks for the advice and offering to borrow your crate. I'm in Alaska
> > though though so ill have to make my own crate.I think #414 might be the
> > most northern Alberg 30? anybody higher than latitude 60?
> > some more questions:
> >
> > After removing the engine, do you remove the shaft too? or just remove
> the
> > prop and slide the cutlass housing and stern tube back?.
> >
> > When you are putting the tube back and caulking from the inside... how do
> > you get the tube to align with the shaft line? especially if the engine
> is
> > gone and not holding the shaft in alignment as a reference... will the
> tube
> > just align itself when you screw the cutlass housing tight? or is it
> just a
> > matter of aligning the engine to the tube afterwards?
> >
> > Thanks
> > Hernan
> >
> > On Thu, Jul 14, 2016 at 9:25 AM, charles pleisse via Public-List <
> > public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:
> >
> > > It will be made immensely easier by removing the engine. Once that is
> out
> > > of the way, you simply remove the cutlass housing, the stern tube
> should
> > > come out with it.  (Good time to replace the cutlass bearing)
> > > Clean it all up being sure to get down to clean fiberglass on the
> internal
> > > surfaces of the hull surrounding the opening where the tube comes
> through.
> > > The Dolfinite that was originally used is a bit stubborn to clean off
> > > completely and will foul the new bedding if completely removed.
> > > It was recommended to me to just bed the entire cutlass housing/stern
> tube
> > > assembly with 5200.  This is where I deviated from advice given to me.
> The
> > > permanence of 5200 scares me a bit.   Once everything is clean,
> reinstall
> > > the tube and cutlass dry.  Then bed the tube from inside using 5200.
> 5200
> > > has a suggested max bead thickness of 1/2" this means it needs to be
> > > applied in layers no thicker than 1/2" and allowed to dry before
> applying
> > > another layer.  I used about 2-1/2 tubes worth on the inside of the
> hull.
> > > Once the 5200 around the stern tube has cured, remove the cutlass
> housing
> > > and bed it in something less permanent that is recommended for use
> below
> > > the water line.  I think I used Boatlife.  Then just toss the engine
> back
> > > in and away you go, simple.  Seriously, I have an A4 which is rather
> simple
> > > to remove. I probably would have been a bit more reluctant with a
> diesel.
> > > I do recommend getting help with the realignment of the engine.  I
> > > attempted that on my own and I'm not too sure I got it spot on.  I
> have a
> > > come-along winch to hoist the engine with and a cradle I made that
> fits in
> > > the cabin sole you're welcome to borrow if you think they may help.
> Happy
> > > to provide any photos offline if you think they may help.
> > >
> > >
> > > Charles Pleisse
> > > Sookie #221
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> --
> Kris Coward                                     http://unripe.melon.org/
> GPG Fingerprint: 2BF3 957D 310A FEEC 4733  830E 21A4 05C7 1FEB 12B3
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