[Public-List] Stern tube

vmarmei via Public-List public-list at lists.alberg30.org
Mon Jun 13 13:06:52 PDT 2016


Sorry man....
Just me overlooked....If you have a space between prop and housing 
....then buy and cut the new bearing to 1/8 inch short of the prop.
The longer the bearing the better.....still buy bearing to double 
length for another rainy day. Leave the bearing sticking out from the housing.
Also if you do not have space for your zinc anode....then screw one 
large pear shaped one to the hull below the prop bearing....flat face 
of the keel....change the SS set screws in the housing for longer 
ones(3/4") and join your anode with clean/plastic stripped solid 
copper wires to the housing....use counter nuts to hold the copper 
wires in place...I have two set screws and also two copper wires 
connecting anode to the prop housing.
Make sure you drill water cooling / lubricating holes into the new 
bearing after the bearing has been pressed into the housing.
Villo A-30 Canada

YES.....
Hack-saw.....Buy a 4-1/2 inch long ....this way you have another 
piece left over for years to come.
Villo



At 09:46 AM 13/06/2016, you wrote:
>Thanks, Don, very helpful. Fortunately, maybe, there is no dolphite in
>evidence, I think the PO went through that in 2009. What is around the tube
>is apparently 4200, as it is still somewhat pliable. It may be the same
>procedure though.
>
>I am still looking for a source for the new bearing. Everything I see online
>is 3 1/2" long whereas what I measure is 2".
>Any suggestions?
>
>Greg Bover
>#114
>Gloucester
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Don Campbell [mailto:dk.campbell at xplornet.ca]
>Sent: Saturday, June 11, 2016 10:58 PM
>To: Greg Bover <gregbover at cbfisk.com>; Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all
><public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
>Subject: Re: [Public-List] Stern tube
>
>Hi Greg:
>     You have yourself quite a job. The only way to seal that tube well is to
>
>remove all of the dolfinite that was the seal and that means getting in to
>the back of the shaft area and scraping all you can of it out, Then you
>could take a wire brush on a drill to rough it up and get more out, and then
>
>it is the solvents. Be careful of inhaling whatever you use. use extra
>ventilation. Once it is clean as a whistle, you can reinstall the tube and
>the bracket on the exterior that holds the bearing. I used most of a tube of
>
>5200 to seal things because I did not want to have to go through the process
>
>again and I put some on the join and then let it start to harden before
>adding more. The toughest part is under the tube, but access and care will
>suffice. That was about 10 years ago now and I still have a dry seal between
>
>the tube and the water outside. IT IS A BIG CHORE TO DO IT WELL.  Any
>dolfinite in the way means you will have a leak.  I also had the motor out
>at the time so had better access., but for me to take out the motor and get
>it back in is about a 3 1/2 hour job, which is not bad in the scheme of
>things.
>     My feeling is that you will have a constant leak here unless you get a
>good seal and the only way to do that is to have things really clean.
>Don
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Greg Bover via Public-List
>Sent: Saturday, June 11, 2016 7:00 PM
>To: List A-30
>Subject: [Public-List] Stern tube
>
>Test fired the Yanmar this morning prior to next weeks scheduled launch when
>
>I put it in gear by mistake it rumbled and rattled unusually. I found the
>shaft to be loose in the cutless bearing. Three hours later after making a
>prop puller I got the bearing out but when I tried to unscrew it from the
>stern tube the tube came part way out with it. What do I need to do to seal
>it when it goes back together?
>Also all the cutless bearings of the right od and id seem to be 3 1/2" long
>whereas mine is just over 2". Does one just cut to length?
>Thanks to George for the good info on the website. And thanks to all you all
>
>for your advice.
>Greg Bover
>#114 Pensive Flyer
>Gloucester
>
>Sent from my iPhone
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