[Public-List] What wood....

Mon Mar 7 08:51:21 PST 2016

Gord

Thanks for bringing this to everyone's attention. When posting messages on 
repairs or maintenance issues, everyone should state their hull number. A 
lot of repairs apply to the vintage of Alberg 30 since there were some 
changes to the boats over the years particularly when Whitby started using a 
liner on boats starting around hull #400.

-----Original Message----- 
From: Gordon Laco via Public-List
Sent: Monday, March 07, 2016 10:40 AM
To: picomar1957 ; Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all
Subject: Re: [Public-List] What wood....

I don't have a problem with the mast beam... Philip... Is your boat a
pre-400 boat?  If so, it'll have a toe rail not at all similar to the cap
rail SURPRISE has...

G

On 2016-03-07, 10:36 AM, "picomar1957 via Public-List"
<public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:

> Hi just my 2 cents worth but when you do the mast beam install the plywood
> vertically much more strength and don't need as many layersWhitby did it
> horizontal probably  to save plywood and labor You will never have to 
> worry
> about it again

Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device-------- Original message
> --------From: Philip Bartlett via Public-List 
> <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
> Date: 3/7/2016  10:03 AM  (GMT-05:00) To: Gordon Laco 
> <mainstay at csolve.net>,
> Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all <public-list at lists.alberg30.org> 
> Subject:
> Re: [Public-List] What wood....
Hi Gord
Replacing the toe rails is a job I am
> going to have to do sooner rather than later. I will be very interested to
> hear how your work progresses.

When you instal the toe rails are you
> planning to put them on cold or do you think steaming will be required? 
> Also,
> are you going to use one or two pieces per side?

Philip

Sent from my iPhone
>

> On Feb 16, 2016, at 5:08 AM, Gordon Laco via Public-List
> <public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:
>
> When I tackle this job, my latest
> thinking is that I will not disturb the
> pop rivets.  The new bolts securing
> the toe rail will supply integrity to
> the hull to deck joint, and quite
> sufficient I think.
>
> The old rivets will be buried beneath the new
> epoxy/cloth job which will be
> laid over the new caulking along the deck edge
> and rivet heads.
>
> Surprise is #426, being of the later style of deck
> construction.  Rather
> than a wooden toe rail, she has the moulded in
> mini-bulwark upon which the
> wood serves as a finishing cap rail.
>
> I
> think the only part of the job which will be finicky will be the removal
> and
> replacement of the genoa sheet track on the port side where I've
> installed a
> second fuel tank. I can get a wrench in over the tank, but can't
> see.  I
> suppose I could remove the tank then replace it again;  I'll see how
> it
> goes.   The potentially messy part of the job is the epoxy/cloth job.  I
> do
> not want to run epoxy down over my nice topsides paint job.  I'm thinking>
> I'm going to build a 'dam' of premium grade masking tape with which to
>
> confine the muck until it cures.   I'll run the tape on both inside and
>
> outside edges of the moulded toe rail and will also thicken the epoxy so 
> it
>
> is a little less runny.  And of course I'll patrol the work until it's
>
> safely solidified enough not to run.
>
> I'm not so fond of epoxy work... I
> was making a new forehatch for Touch
> Wood, the Folkboat, yesterday.  I
> remarked to myself yet again that wood
> work looks just as beautiful in the
> building stages as when completed and
> that tends to boost ones morale. Epoxy
> and glass work usually looks like
> hell until the final finish is applied. I
> am usually in a state of impatient
> near panic fearing I've made a mess....
>
>
> Onwards,
>
> Gord #426 Surprise
>
>
> On 2016-02-15, 1:56 PM, "Lawrence
> Morris via Public-List"
> <public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:
>
>>
> Greg,
>>
>> Remember whatever wood type you choose. Those bolts holding down
> the toe rail
>> also are the main fastener system holding the hull to deck
> joint together.
>> Plan well and be careful when removing reinstalling the toe
> rail.
>>
>>
>>
>> Larry
>>
>> Sent from my iPad
>>
>>> On Feb 15, 2016,
> at 7:34 AM, Greg Dawson via Public-List
>>> <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
> wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>> Hi Guys
>>>
>>> Alternatives to teak? The woodwork on
> our boat is in poor shape, the hatch
>>> covers are falling to pieces and the
> toe rail has been cut in a couple of
>>> places. The teak trim on the stern is
> snapped in two and the boards either
>>> side of the cockpit are badly
> weathered. To add to this the mild steel bolts
>>> holding our toe rail down
> are so rusted that they are snapping when you try
>>> to adjust them.
>>>
>
>>> I'm looking to replace the toe rail with an aluminum system once I
> find
>>> something appropriate, does anyone have any ideas? Also, replacement
> teak for
>>> the hatches etc is simply out of our price range (lots of other
> stuff to buy
>>> with that money) and I am looking at alternatives, any ideas?
> Is there any
>>> reason for instance that I can't use ash or cherry provided
> that I accept the
>>> additional work of varnishing each season?
>>>
>>>
> Finally, on the subject of mast beams, is there an engineered drawing
> kicking
>>> around that I could work off to produce my new beam. Currently it
> has the
>>> Frankenstein bolts and aluminum plates. Nothing is quite lining up
> as it
>>> should and I am wary of using the damaged beam as a template. I have
> to renew
>>> the bulkheads as they are rotten around the chain plates so I
> might as well
>>> do the beam to at the same time. Any ideas?
>>>
>>> Thanks
>
>>>
>>> Greg.
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