[Public-List] Toe rail cap replacement (was What Wood...)

[Jason S via Public-List]

Cap rail on #457 was screwed down into the fiberglass. It also, in some
area, was laid down when hull to deck compound was laid....and in those
areas...near impossible to remove.
  I have some hull to deck joint issues, no glue installed from factory and
the rivets failed. Unfortunately in those areas the screws that held the
toe rail down did not pentatrate the fiberglass completely and my hull to
deck joint failed.

I will be gassing over the entire hull to deck joint and the gluing a new
cap on

Jason
#457
On Mar 7, 2016 2:51 PM, "Chip Dance via Public-List" <
public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:

> As part of the refit of #456 I will need to replace all of the toe rail
> cap. I'm not sure at this point if I will go with teak or something else.
> The tongue and groove joints seem daunting to me considering the curve of
> the rail. Even though I anticipate using a steam box, the sides of the
> groove (it seems to me) would be particularly delicate. Anyone have any
> suggestions for the best approach? The easiest solution would seem to be
> butt joints, but the easiest solution is seldom the best solution and
> certainly not the best looking solution.
>
> Although I have not yet removed the existing cap (I like Kris's idea of
> keeping the old cap to help form the new cap), from the inside, it appears
> as though some of the screws (or bolts in some cases) go all the way
> through the molded rail. How did Whitby mount the cap? Screws or bolts?
> What would you all recommend when replacing the cap? That seems like a bad
> location for multiple through-bolts considering the difficulty of
> re-bedding. Thoughts?
>
> Chip
> #456
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