[Public-List] What wood....

Wed Mar 9 13:30:03 PST 2016

The PO's repair seemed to use a scarf joint, but that joint was starting
to separate before I even got the boat, so I was reluctant to repeat it.
That said, the grain on the repaired section of rail tells me that it
was traced out of a wider board with a bandsaw or jigsaw, rather than
being a narrower board that was steamed and bent to fit the gunwale.
Perhaps that was a factor in the joint separating, and maybe I'll
reproduce the existing joint instead of trying to mess with it. Food for
thought regardless...

-Kris

On Mon, Mar 07, 2016 at 04:16:10PM -0500, Wes Gardner wrote:
> Hi All,
> 
> I used to build both cap, toe and rub rials.  The typical or traditional
> joint is a scarf joint with the scarf running from the inside back to the
> outside such that if it's rubbed along a piling it doesn't open the joint.
> 
> Wes
> 
> On Mon, Mar 7, 2016 at 12:42 PM, Kris Coward via Public-List <
> public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:
> 
> >
> > In a similar vein, I had a collision last August that damaged the
> > forward section of my stbd toe rail. Looking at one of the joints
> > already there, I'm pretty sure it's not the first such collision Candy
> > Cane's seen. (I blame the new genoa for this collision; added 10% to
> > prefer class rules over PHRF and was still figuring out how much harder
> > it is to see traffic around more sail-- we were racing, of course.)
> >
> > My plans are to prepare a piece of teak the same width as the existing
> > toe rail, and a bit longer than the distance from the bow to the current
> > repair joint (because that joint is a straight cut, and I'd rather make
> > a tongue like the other joints), steam it, and then clamp it above the
> > existing section of rail to get the best possible match to the current
> > alignment. Once it's dry (and before I take the clamps off), I'll mark
> > down the location for all the screw holes, where the rounding off of the
> > rail should be interrupted for the running light ledge, shape/position
> > of ends, etc.
> >
> > Then I expect to take it back to my workshop, round off the edges, drill
> > the screw holes, etc.; then bring it back to the boat for a day of
> > taking off the old rail and putting on the new one, with the steam box
> > handy, in case the new rail has straightened back out somewhat since the
> > measuring step (the tongue should be on the new piece, in case it has to
> > be steamed again).
> >
> > If anyone sees any pitfalls with this plan, or has improvements to
> > suggest, I'd be glad to hear about it.
> >
> > Cheers,
> > Kris
> >
> > On Mon, Mar 07, 2016 at 07:03:38AM -0800, Philip Bartlett via Public-List
> > wrote:
> > > Hi Gord
> > > Replacing the toe rails is a job I am going to have to do sooner rather
> > than later. I will be very interested to hear how your work progresses.
> > >
> > > When you instal the toe rails are you planning to put them on cold or do
> > you think steaming will be required? Also, are you going to use one or two
> > pieces per side?
> > >
> > > Philip
> > >
> > > Sent from my iPhone
> > >
> > > > On Feb 16, 2016, at 5:08 AM, Gordon Laco via Public-List <
> > public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > When I tackle this job, my latest thinking is that I will not disturb
> > the
> > > > pop rivets.  The new bolts securing the toe rail will supply integrity
> > to
> > > > the hull to deck joint, and quite sufficient I think.
> > > >
> > > > The old rivets will be buried beneath the new epoxy/cloth job which
> > will be
> > > > laid over the new caulking along the deck edge and rivet heads.
> > > >
> > > > Surprise is #426, being of the later style of deck construction.
> > Rather
> > > > than a wooden toe rail, she has the moulded in mini-bulwark upon which
> > the
> > > > wood serves as a finishing cap rail.
> > > >
> > > > I think the only part of the job which will be finicky will be the
> > removal
> > > > and replacement of the genoa sheet track on the port side where I've
> > > > installed a second fuel tank. I can get a wrench in over the tank, but
> > can't
> > > > see.  I suppose I could remove the tank then replace it again;  I'll
> > see how
> > > > it goes.   The potentially messy part of the job is the epoxy/cloth
> > job.  I
> > > > do not want to run epoxy down over my nice topsides paint job.  I'm
> > thinking
> > > > I'm going to build a 'dam' of premium grade masking tape with which to
> > > > confine the muck until it cures.   I'll run the tape on both inside and
> > > > outside edges of the moulded toe rail and will also thicken the epoxy
> > so it
> > > > is a little less runny.  And of course I'll patrol the work until it's
> > > > safely solidified enough not to run.
> > > >
> > > > I'm not so fond of epoxy work... I was making a new forehatch for Touch
> > > > Wood, the Folkboat, yesterday.  I remarked to myself yet again that
> > wood
> > > > work looks just as beautiful in the building stages as when completed
> > and
> > > > that tends to boost ones morale. Epoxy and glass work usually looks
> > like
> > > > hell until the final finish is applied. I am usually in a state of
> > impatient
> > > > near panic fearing I've made a mess....
> > > >
> > > > Onwards,
> > > >
> > > > Gord #426 Surprise
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > On 2016-02-15, 1:56 PM, "Lawrence Morris via Public-List"
> > > > <public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:
> > > >
> > > >> Greg,
> > > >>
> > > >> Remember whatever wood type you choose. Those bolts holding down the
> > toe rail
> > > >> also are the main fastener system holding the hull to deck joint
> > together.
> > > >> Plan well and be careful when removing reinstalling the toe rail.
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >> Larry
> > > >>
> > > >> Sent from my iPad
> > > >>
> > > >>> On Feb 15, 2016, at 7:34 AM, Greg Dawson via Public-List
> > > >>> <public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:
> > > >>>
> > > >>>
> > > >>> Hi Guys
> > > >>>
> > > >>> Alternatives to teak? The woodwork on our boat is in poor shape, the
> > hatch
> > > >>> covers are falling to pieces and the toe rail has been cut in a
> > couple of
> > > >>> places. The teak trim on the stern is snapped in two and the boards
> > either
> > > >>> side of the cockpit are badly weathered. To add to this the mild
> > steel bolts
> > > >>> holding our toe rail down are so rusted that they are snapping when
> > you try
> > > >>> to adjust them.
> > > >>>
> > > >>> I'm looking to replace the toe rail with an aluminum system once I
> > find
> > > >>> something appropriate, does anyone have any ideas? Also, replacement
> > teak for
> > > >>> the hatches etc is simply out of our price range (lots of other
> > stuff to buy
> > > >>> with that money) and I am looking at alternatives, any ideas? Is
> > there any
> > > >>> reason for instance that I can't use ash or cherry provided that I
> > accept the
> > > >>> additional work of varnishing each season?
> > > >>>
> > > >>> Finally, on the subject of mast beams, is there an engineered
> > drawing kicking
> > > >>> around that I could work off to produce my new beam. Currently it
> > has the
> > > >>> Frankenstein bolts and aluminum plates. Nothing is quite lining up
> > as it
> > > >>> should and I am wary of using the damaged beam as a template. I have
> > to renew
> > > >>> the bulkheads as they are rotten around the chain plates so I might
> > as well
> > > >>> do the beam to at the same time. Any ideas?
> > > >>>
> > > >>> Thanks
> > > >>>
> > > >>> Greg.
> > > >>> _______________________________________________
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> > --
> > Kris Coward                                     http://unripe.melon.org/
> > GPG Fingerprint: 2BF3 957D 310A FEEC 4733  830E 21A4 05C7 1FEB 12B3
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-- 
Kris Coward					http://unripe.melon.org/
GPG Fingerprint: 2BF3 957D 310A FEEC 4733  830E 21A4 05C7 1FEB 12B3