[Public-List] Chainplates and caulking

Thu Sep 8 04:21:44 PDT 2016

Dan,

I had the same question....so its Google time.
Found the following (
http://www.oldhousejournal.com/the_short_course_on_caulk/magazine/1417):

*Butyl.* Based on a man-made rubber, butyl is one of the oldest and most
affordable caulk types. Butyl caulk is solvent-based and characteristically
stringy, which makes it difficult to apply in a finish-quality joint, but
its admirable adhesion and weather resistance continue to make it popular
for sealing gutters, chimney flashings, walks, and other exterior joints.

*Latex.* A general term for a rubber-based caulk that is applied as a
liquid, latex caulks are usually water-based. Because basic latex caulks
have the least ability to stretch (rated around 7% to 10% elasticity), they
work best in interior applications where little movement is expected. These
days, latex is often combined with another caulk type, such as acrylic, to
enhance performance.

*Acrylic.* In caulks, acrylics are a family of synthetic resins that are
clear as well as water-soluble. Like latex caulks, acrylic caulks are easy
to work with because they can be painted and cleaned up with water, making
them good for touch-ups and for filling small gaps. *Elastomeric caulk, a
generic term for high-performance acrylic caulk*, is designed for greater
elasticity and is quickly becoming a favorite in a market that values ease
and speed.

Generally, acrylic and latex caulks have a life span of five to 10 years,
depending on environmental exposure, such as temperature shifts,
ultraviolet light, weather, and building movement. These caulks can usually
be removed by simply pulling them up or by using a utility knife to cut
them away. Acrylic latex hybrids might include more solids, such as butyl,
to offer greater product strength and integrity.

*Silicone.* Silicone caulk is formulated from silicone elastomers, or in
simple terms, linear polymers of silicone oils that can be coaxed to
cross-link in a couple of ways. For residential use, this means
incorporating chemicals that induce the polymers to room temperature
vulcanize or RTV. (This process releases acetic acid as a by-product,
producing a vinegar scent.) Silicone is virtually non-porous so its big
advantage is to make something watertight, and it's most often used in
plumbing applications (shower and sink installations) and some glasswork.
Silicone is extremely rubbery (50% elasticity) but does not stick as well
as other caulking and in its pure form, can't be painted. There are now
some hybrid silconized acrylics that offer greater elasticity and a
paint-friendly surface; they may be worth a try in an indoor setting where
flexibility is critical.

*Polyurethane.* Polyurethane caulk, which is based on the reaction of a
glycol with an isocyanate to form a compound, is preferred for outdoor
applications, with high-quality products having an exterior life span of 10
to 20 years, depending on exposure. Polyurethane products bond to most
surfaces, including masonry and metal, hold up to heavy movement (25%
elasticity), and can be painted. These traits also make these products
great for filling indoor gaps in floorboards because polyurethane can take
the high-traffic stresses of floors.

The products are overkill for other indoor applications, however, because
the material is much harder to control and takes longer to set up in
situations where acrylic latex would be perfectly suitable. Polyurethane
caulks have tremendous bonding ability-so much so, that they can also be
used as adhesives in some circumstances-but this tenacity does make them
more challenging to work with.

Polyurethane is solvent-based, meaning that you must use paint thinner for
cleanup. Early polyurethanes had to be mixed from two parts in the field
like epoxy, but the new products come in one-part formula tubes ready to
use. Due to their adhesive strength, removal usually involves cutting out
or sanding off unwanted caulk.

On Wed, Sep 7, 2016 at 6:16 PM, Rod via Public-List <
public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:

> Dan;
>
> I have not heard of elastomeric caulk .
> Do you have brand name I can watch for ?
>
>
> Cheers,  Rod
>
> <div>-------- Original message --------</div><div>From: Daniel Sternglass
> via Public-List <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
> </div><div>Date:07-09-2016  3:21 PM  (GMT-05:00) </div><div>To: Alberg-30
> List <public-list at alberg30.org> </div><div>Subject: [Public-List]
> Chainplates and caulking </div><div>
> </div>Hello,
>
> For 30 years I have used elastomeric caulk around all seven chainplate
> openings, with no water incursion. Admittedly all that time in fresh
> water, but it has worked well. Easy to inspect, and just scrape it off
> and start again if there is too much build-up.
>
> --Dan Sternglass
> Watcher of the Skies, #201, 1966
> Cayuga Lake, Ithaca, NY
>
> dans at stmktg.com
> office: +1607-257-3431
> mobile: +1607-592-8012
>
> Strategic Marketing Associates
> 403 Highgate Road
> Ithaca, NY 14850
>
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S/V Constance Alberg 30 #262
Annapolis/Eastport MD