[Public-List] Chainplates and caulking

Wes Gardner via Public-List public-list at lists.alberg30.org
Thu Sep 8 08:38:01 PDT 2016


I wonder where polysulphide is on this list....

On Thu, Sep 8, 2016 at 7:21 AM, Jonathan Bresler via Public-List <
public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:

> Dan,
>
> I had the same question....so its Google time.
> Found the following (
> http://www.oldhousejournal.com/the_short_course_on_caulk/magazine/1417):
>
>
> *Butyl.* Based on a man-made rubber, butyl is one of the oldest and most
> affordable caulk types. Butyl caulk is solvent-based and characteristically
> stringy, which makes it difficult to apply in a finish-quality joint, but
> its admirable adhesion and weather resistance continue to make it popular
> for sealing gutters, chimney flashings, walks, and other exterior joints.
>
> *Latex.* A general term for a rubber-based caulk that is applied as a
> liquid, latex caulks are usually water-based. Because basic latex caulks
> have the least ability to stretch (rated around 7% to 10% elasticity), they
> work best in interior applications where little movement is expected. These
> days, latex is often combined with another caulk type, such as acrylic, to
> enhance performance.
>
> *Acrylic.* In caulks, acrylics are a family of synthetic resins that are
> clear as well as water-soluble. Like latex caulks, acrylic caulks are easy
> to work with because they can be painted and cleaned up with water, making
> them good for touch-ups and for filling small gaps. *Elastomeric caulk, a
> generic term for high-performance acrylic caulk*, is designed for greater
> elasticity and is quickly becoming a favorite in a market that values ease
> and speed.
>
> Generally, acrylic and latex caulks have a life span of five to 10 years,
> depending on environmental exposure, such as temperature shifts,
> ultraviolet light, weather, and building movement. These caulks can usually
> be removed by simply pulling them up or by using a utility knife to cut
> them away. Acrylic latex hybrids might include more solids, such as butyl,
> to offer greater product strength and integrity.
>
> *Silicone.* Silicone caulk is formulated from silicone elastomers, or in
> simple terms, linear polymers of silicone oils that can be coaxed to
> cross-link in a couple of ways. For residential use, this means
> incorporating chemicals that induce the polymers to room temperature
> vulcanize or RTV. (This process releases acetic acid as a by-product,
> producing a vinegar scent.) Silicone is virtually non-porous so its big
> advantage is to make something watertight, and it's most often used in
> plumbing applications (shower and sink installations) and some glasswork.
> Silicone is extremely rubbery (50% elasticity) but does not stick as well
> as other caulking and in its pure form, can't be painted. There are now
> some hybrid silconized acrylics that offer greater elasticity and a
> paint-friendly surface; they may be worth a try in an indoor setting where
> flexibility is critical.
>
> *Polyurethane.* Polyurethane caulk, which is based on the reaction of a
> glycol with an isocyanate to form a compound, is preferred for outdoor
> applications, with high-quality products having an exterior life span of 10
> to 20 years, depending on exposure. Polyurethane products bond to most
> surfaces, including masonry and metal, hold up to heavy movement (25%
> elasticity), and can be painted. These traits also make these products
> great for filling indoor gaps in floorboards because polyurethane can take
> the high-traffic stresses of floors.
>
> The products are overkill for other indoor applications, however, because
> the material is much harder to control and takes longer to set up in
> situations where acrylic latex would be perfectly suitable. Polyurethane
> caulks have tremendous bonding ability-so much so, that they can also be
> used as adhesives in some circumstances-but this tenacity does make them
> more challenging to work with.
>
> Polyurethane is solvent-based, meaning that you must use paint thinner for
> cleanup. Early polyurethanes had to be mixed from two parts in the field
> like epoxy, but the new products come in one-part formula tubes ready to
> use. Due to their adhesive strength, removal usually involves cutting out
> or sanding off unwanted caulk.
>
> On Wed, Sep 7, 2016 at 6:16 PM, Rod via Public-List <
> public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:
>
> > Dan;
> >
> > I have not heard of elastomeric caulk .
> > Do you have brand name I can watch for ?
> >
> >
> > Cheers,  Rod
> >
> > <div>-------- Original message --------</div><div>From: Daniel Sternglass
> > via Public-List <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
> > </div><div>Date:07-09-2016  3:21 PM  (GMT-05:00) </div><div>To: Alberg-30
> > List <public-list at alberg30.org> </div><div>Subject: [Public-List]
> > Chainplates and caulking </div><div>
> > </div>Hello,
> >
> > For 30 years I have used elastomeric caulk around all seven chainplate
> > openings, with no water incursion. Admittedly all that time in fresh
> > water, but it has worked well. Easy to inspect, and just scrape it off
> > and start again if there is too much build-up.
> >
> > --Dan Sternglass
> > Watcher of the Skies, #201, 1966
> > Cayuga Lake, Ithaca, NY
> >
> > dans at stmktg.com
> > office: +1607-257-3431
> > mobile: +1607-592-8012
> >
> > Strategic Marketing Associates
> > 403 Highgate Road
> > Ithaca, NY 14850
> >
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>
>
>
> --
> Jonathan M Bresler
> S/V Constance Alberg 30 #262
> Annapolis/Eastport MD
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