[Public-List] Teak inlay in cockpit seats and hatch cover

Gordon Laco via Public-List public-list at lists.alberg30.org
Fri Feb 3 11:41:33 PST 2017

Hello gang – 

As I commented earlier, I’d like to do the teak job on my liner boat cockpit seats, companionway slider and stern locker.  All still have the teak plywood, and it’s in good shape, which isn’t helping me develop the gumption to change them.

Last year we had a guest aboard who commented on the fantastic ‘tartan’ pattern in the wood on our companionway.  I was puzzled for a moment, then I realized she was admiring the way years of sanding has removed parts of the top two veneers of wood, leaving a pattern of two wood grains at 90 degrees to each other under the varnish…  I just said ‘thanks’.

The plywood in the seats and stern is still intact, but did not draw any remarks, admiring or otherwise.

Gord #426 Surprise

On 2017-02-03, 2:19 PM, "Public-List on behalf of via Public-List" <public-list-bounces at lists.alberg30.org on behalf of public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:

    I used 3/8" solid teak and resealed the port seat insert with 5200
    when it began to get loose. No movement from that one now. I did the
    same thing with the lazarette and the starboard seat insert. I did not
    put these in with 5200, but mostly they are holding well. I also had
    to throw out previous work by a local lumber yard that did not follow
    my directions. The original teak veneer on the companion way hatch and
    the sea hood still survive. For different reasons, I painted them to
    match the deck color. Full disclosure, The companionway veneer hatch
    was getting very thin because of sanding by me and previous owners.
    David, 432
    	-----------------------------------------From: "George Dinwiddie via
    Sent: 03-Feb-2017 18:15:51 +0000
    Subject: Re: [Public-List] Teak inlay in cockpit seats and hatch cover
     FWIW, I do have a liner boat, and the previous owner replaced the 
     plywood inserts with solid teak. Eventually water got under that, 
     causing it to warp and crack. One board popped out altogether.
     - George
     On 2/2/17 12:07 PM, Wes Gardner via Public-List wrote:
     > I think I would follow Mike's comments and suggestions to the
     > I believe, as Mike points out, that the seats are problematic
     > of the flex. I also agree that plywood may not be the answer here
     > over the long term. My boat is a non-liner boat so doesn't have
     > issues, it has solid wood seats and a plywood main hatch, which did
     > fail and was rebuilt/reinforced with solid wood exterior ribs and
     > then glassed over and painted.
     > Sent from my iPad
     >> On Feb 2, 2017, at 12:02 PM, Mike Lehman via Public-List  wrote:
     >> Stephen,
     >> I have been through this a number of times on several Albergs. The
    bad part
     >> about teak veneer plywood, is 1. over the years the veneer wears
    off and
     >> you see the opposing grain for the layers below. 2. Particularly
    on the
     >> seats, the perimeter leaks and water gets under the plywood and
     >> freeze-thaw the plywood eventually gets loose and comes out.
     >> For the main hatch and the lazarette the fix I did on our boat
    #505 (Liner
     >> boat) was similar to what Larry Morris did. I removed the plywood
     >> and installed solid teak strips with epoxy beneath and epoxy
    between the
     >> joints in the strips. For the epoxy between the strips was I added
    a white
     >> coloring to make it look like teak and holly. I keep my hatches
     >> with Cetol Natural (now using AwlWood MA) and they look great and
    have held
     >> up for 20+ years without a problem. More recently, on other boats
    I have
     >> repaired, I milled 5/4 teak the strips to have an edge overlap the
     >> perimeter all the way around, so water cannot get into the edges
     >> the wood and the fiberglass edges. This lip makes the wood about
    1/4" proud
     >> of the fiberglass, but has worked out well and survived the test
    of time.
     >> The seats are a different story. I was perplexed why these repairs
     >> around the edges and let water get under the wood and eventually
    pop up.
     >> This is not the case with the seats that have to overlap on later
     >> but did happen on my original fix. So, I once again remove the
    wood and
     >> this time installed rubber imitation teak and holly on the seats,
    like you
     >> find on many more modern boats. Two problems with this 1. water
    still found
     >> its way under the rubber and 2. while it looked good at first,
    after a few
     >> years it looked like shit (nautical term). So why do the seats
    fail? I
     >> concluded that is it because we stand on the seats and that cause
    the seal
     >> around the perimeter to fail. So, my permanent fix for the seat,
    which has
     >> now held up for 10 years without and problems...I glassed them
    over. I dug
     >> out everything; cut pieces of Coosa Board
     >> http://www.coosacomposites.com/bluewater.htm [1] and epoxied that
    in the seats
     >> for strength. Then glassed over the Coosa Board, ground it smooth,
     >> painted it with KIWI Grip. Okay, so it takes some of the wood-look
     >> but the Albergs have teak coamings and toe rails and hatches so it
     >> looks good. The seats are now strong, you can jump on them, they
    do not
     >> need periodic refinishing, and the KIWI grip gives a very nice
     >> finish so no more busting your ass while slipping on wet varnish
     >> Hope this helps.
     >> On Wed, Feb 1, 2017 at 5:00 PM, Stephen Gwyn via Public-List <
     >> public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:
     >>> Hi,
     >>> My boat (Hull #495) has teak plywood inset into fibreglass for
     >>> the cockpit seats / locker lids and the sliding hatch. After only
    45 years,
     >>> the teak is starting to rot. The depression in the cockpit seats
     >>> is 3/4" deep. The depression on the sliding hatch cover is 3/8"
     >>> This piece of teak has fore-and-aft cuts on the bottom side so
     >>> the plywood can bend to meet the curve.
     >>> I'd like to switch to teak battens, with black sealant in
     >>> Has anybody done this?
     >>> SG
     When I remember bygone days George Dinwiddie
     I think how evening follows morn; gdinwiddie at alberg30.org
     So many I loved were not yet dead, http://www.Alberg30.org [2]
     So many I love were not yet born. also see:
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     /> Please support them.
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    [1] http://www.coosacomposites.com/bluewater.htm
    [2] http://www.Alberg30.org
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    These businesses support your Association:
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