[Public-List] Teak inlay in cockpit seats and hatch cover

[via Public-List]

I used 3/8" solid teak and resealed the port seat insert with 5200
when it began to get loose. No movement from that one now. I did the
same thing with the lazarette and the starboard seat insert. I did not
put these in with 5200, but mostly they are holding well. I also had
to throw out previous work by a local lumber yard that did not follow
my directions. The original teak veneer on the companion way hatch and
the sea hood still survive. For different reasons, I painted them to
match the deck color. Full disclosure, The companionway veneer hatch
was getting very thin because of sanding by me and previous owners.
David, 432

	-----------------------------------------From: "George Dinwiddie via
Public-List" 

To: 
Cc: 
Sent: 03-Feb-2017 18:15:51 +0000
Subject: Re: [Public-List] Teak inlay in cockpit seats and hatch cover

 FWIW, I do have a liner boat, and the previous owner replaced the 
 plywood inserts with solid teak. Eventually water got under that, 
 causing it to warp and crack. One board popped out altogether.

 - George

 On 2/2/17 12:07 PM, Wes Gardner via Public-List wrote:
 > I think I would follow Mike's comments and suggestions to the
letter.
 > I believe, as Mike points out, that the seats are problematic
because
 > of the flex. I also agree that plywood may not be the answer here
 > over the long term. My boat is a non-liner boat so doesn't have
those
 > issues, it has solid wood seats and a plywood main hatch, which did
 > fail and was rebuilt/reinforced with solid wood exterior ribs and
 > then glassed over and painted.
 >
 > Sent from my iPad
 >
 >> On Feb 2, 2017, at 12:02 PM, Mike Lehman via Public-List  wrote:
 >>
 >> Stephen,
 >>
 >> I have been through this a number of times on several Albergs. The
bad part
 >> about teak veneer plywood, is 1. over the years the veneer wears
off and
 >> you see the opposing grain for the layers below. 2. Particularly
on the
 >> seats, the perimeter leaks and water gets under the plywood and
with
 >> freeze-thaw the plywood eventually gets loose and comes out.
 >>
 >> For the main hatch and the lazarette the fix I did on our boat
#505 (Liner
 >> boat) was similar to what Larry Morris did. I removed the plywood
entirely
 >> and installed solid teak strips with epoxy beneath and epoxy
between the
 >> joints in the strips. For the epoxy between the strips was I added
a white
 >> coloring to make it look like teak and holly. I keep my hatches
finished
 >> with Cetol Natural (now using AwlWood MA) and they look great and
have held
 >> up for 20+ years without a problem. More recently, on other boats
I have
 >> repaired, I milled 5/4 teak the strips to have an edge overlap the
 >> perimeter all the way around, so water cannot get into the edges
between
 >> the wood and the fiberglass edges. This lip makes the wood about
1/4" proud
 >> of the fiberglass, but has worked out well and survived the test
of time.
 >>
 >> The seats are a different story. I was perplexed why these repairs
failed
 >> around the edges and let water get under the wood and eventually
pop up.
 >> This is not the case with the seats that have to overlap on later
repairs,
 >> but did happen on my original fix. So, I once again remove the
wood and
 >> this time installed rubber imitation teak and holly on the seats,
like you
 >> find on many more modern boats. Two problems with this 1. water
still found
 >> its way under the rubber and 2. while it looked good at first,
after a few
 >> years it looked like shit (nautical term). So why do the seats
fail? I
 >> concluded that is it because we stand on the seats and that cause
the seal
 >> around the perimeter to fail. So, my permanent fix for the seat,
which has
 >> now held up for 10 years without and problems...I glassed them
over. I dug
 >> out everything; cut pieces of Coosa Board
 >> http://www.coosacomposites.com/bluewater.htm [1] and epoxied that
in the seats
 >> for strength. Then glassed over the Coosa Board, ground it smooth,
and
 >> painted it with KIWI Grip. Okay, so it takes some of the wood-look
away,
 >> but the Albergs have teak coamings and toe rails and hatches so it
still
 >> looks good. The seats are now strong, you can jump on them, they
do not
 >> need periodic refinishing, and the KIWI grip gives a very nice
non-skid
 >> finish so no more busting your ass while slipping on wet varnish
wood.
 >>
 >> Hope this helps.
 >>
 >>
 >>
 >> On Wed, Feb 1, 2017 at 5:00 PM, Stephen Gwyn via Public-List <
 >> public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:
 >>
 >>>
 >>> Hi,
 >>>
 >>> My boat (Hull #495) has teak plywood inset into fibreglass for
both
 >>> the cockpit seats / locker lids and the sliding hatch. After only
45 years,
 >>> the teak is starting to rot. The depression in the cockpit seats
 >>> is 3/4" deep. The depression on the sliding hatch cover is 3/8"
deep.
 >>> This piece of teak has fore-and-aft cuts on the bottom side so
 >>> the plywood can bend to meet the curve.
 >>>
 >>> I'd like to switch to teak battens, with black sealant in
between.
 >>>
 >>> Has anybody done this?
 >>>
 >>> SG
 >>>

 -- 
 ----------------------------------------------------------------------
 When I remember bygone days George Dinwiddie
 I think how evening follows morn; gdinwiddie at alberg30.org
 So many I loved were not yet dead, http://www.Alberg30.org [2]
 So many I love were not yet born. also see:
 'The Middle' by Ogden Nash http://idiacomputing.com [3]
 ----------------------------------------------------------------------

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Links:
------
[1] http://www.coosacomposites.com/bluewater.htm
[2] http://www.Alberg30.org
[3] http://idiacomputing.com