[Public-List] Teak inlay in cockpit seats and hatch cover

Wes Gardner via Public-List public-list at lists.alberg30.org
Fri Feb 3 11:59:31 PST 2017

Kinda seems like the solution is fill it in, glass it over and paint it

Sent from my iPad

> On Feb 3, 2017, at 2:15 PM, George Dinwiddie via Public-List <public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:
> FWIW, I do have a liner boat, and the previous owner replaced the plywood inserts with solid teak. Eventually water got under that, causing it to warp and crack. One board popped out altogether.
> - George
>> On 2/2/17 12:07 PM, Wes Gardner via Public-List wrote:
>> I think I would follow Mike's comments and suggestions to the letter.
>> I believe, as Mike points out, that the seats are problematic because
>> of the flex. I also agree that plywood may not be the answer here
>> over the long term. My boat is a non-liner boat so doesn't have those
>> issues, it has solid wood seats and a plywood main hatch, which did
>> fail and was rebuilt/reinforced with solid wood exterior ribs and
>> then glassed over and painted.
>> Sent from my iPad
>>> On Feb 2, 2017, at 12:02 PM, Mike Lehman via Public-List <public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:
>>> Stephen,
>>> I have been through this a number of times on several Albergs. The bad part
>>> about teak veneer plywood, is 1. over the years the veneer wears off and
>>> you see the opposing grain for the layers below. 2. Particularly on the
>>> seats, the perimeter leaks and water gets under the plywood and with
>>> freeze-thaw the plywood eventually gets loose and comes out.
>>> For the main hatch and the lazarette the fix I did on our boat #505 (Liner
>>> boat) was similar to what Larry Morris did. I removed the plywood entirely
>>> and installed solid teak strips with epoxy beneath and epoxy between the
>>> joints in the strips. For the epoxy between the strips was I added a white
>>> coloring to make it look like teak and holly. I keep my hatches finished
>>> with Cetol Natural (now using AwlWood MA) and they look great and have held
>>> up for 20+ years without a problem. More recently, on other boats I have
>>> repaired, I milled 5/4 teak the strips to have an edge overlap the
>>> perimeter all the way around, so water cannot get into the edges between
>>> the wood and the fiberglass edges. This lip makes the wood about 1/4" proud
>>> of the fiberglass, but has worked out well and survived the test of time.
>>> The seats are a different story. I was perplexed why these repairs failed
>>> around the edges and let water get under the wood and eventually pop up.
>>> This is not the case with the seats that have to overlap on later repairs,
>>> but did happen on my original fix. So, I once again remove the wood and
>>> this time installed rubber imitation teak and holly on the seats, like you
>>> find on many more modern boats. Two problems with this 1. water still found
>>> its way under the rubber and 2. while it looked good at first, after a few
>>> years it looked like shit (nautical term). So why do the seats fail? I
>>> concluded that is it because we stand on the seats and that cause the seal
>>> around the perimeter to fail. So, my permanent fix for the seat, which has
>>> now held up for 10 years without and problems...I glassed them over. I dug
>>> out everything; cut pieces of Coosa Board
>>> http://www.coosacomposites.com/bluewater.htm and epoxied that in the seats
>>> for strength. Then glassed over the Coosa Board, ground it smooth, and
>>> painted it with KIWI Grip. Okay, so it takes some of the wood-look away,
>>> but the Albergs have teak coamings and toe rails and hatches so it still
>>> looks good. The seats are now strong, you can jump on them, they do not
>>> need periodic refinishing, and the KIWI grip gives a very nice non-skid
>>> finish so no more busting your ass while slipping on wet varnish wood.
>>> Hope this helps.
>>> On Wed, Feb 1, 2017 at 5:00 PM, Stephen Gwyn via Public-List <
>>> public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:
>>>> Hi,
>>>> My boat (Hull #495) has teak plywood inset into fibreglass for both
>>>> the cockpit seats / locker lids and the sliding hatch. After only 45 years,
>>>> the teak is starting to rot. The depression in the cockpit seats
>>>> is 3/4" deep. The depression on the sliding hatch cover is 3/8" deep.
>>>> This piece of teak has fore-and-aft cuts on the bottom side so
>>>> the plywood can bend to meet the curve.
>>>> I'd like to switch to teak battens, with black sealant in between.
>>>> Has anybody done this?
>>>> SG
> -- 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>  When I remember bygone days                         George Dinwiddie
>  I think how evening follows morn;            gdinwiddie at alberg30.org
>  So many I loved were not yet dead,           http://www.Alberg30.org
>  So many I love were not yet born.                          also see:
>               'The Middle' by Ogden Nash     http://idiacomputing.com
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> _______________________________________________
> These businesses support your Association:
> http://www.alberg30.org/store/A30supporters.html
> Please support them.
> _______________________________________________
> Public-List mailing list
> Public-List at lists.alberg30.org
> http://lists.alberg30.org/listinfo.cgi/public-list-alberg30.org

More information about the Public-List mailing list