[Public-List] Use of Chisels
C.B. Currier via Public-List
public-list at lists.alberg30.org
Tue Mar 21 05:06:40 PDT 2017
Use 24 grit 6" Sanding disks - more like fred flintstone glued rocks to
paper.
It is for floor sanding and takes the paint right off and gets you down
to gelcoat quick.
I poked holes in the paper for the vacuum to trap the dust. Worked quite
well.
I redid the whole hull one February - barrier coated and baltoplated.
I found the chemicals messy n slow, scraping (though I grew up scraping) not
effective enough as I still needed to get to gelcoat and then found the
sanding slow
- till I came across the 24 grit.
CB Currier
Infinity #57
On 03/20/2017 01:52 PM, Wes Gardner via Public-List wrote:
> Hi All,
>
> I have NEVER used a chisel to remove bottom paint. The old Red Devil
> scraper with a flat file in your back pocket to sharpen it is the old
> stand-by. They make more ergonomic scrapers now but the technique remains
> the same. Learn to sharpen your tools, they will then perform admirably.
> Several years in boat yards teach you many things (not all of them good
> :-). I have also used a soft pad grinder with 36 grit. Cuts fast, be
> careful. Also when you get a scraper blade out of the package, the first
> thing you should do is use your flat file to round over the two ends, this
> will help eliminate gouging the gelcoat.
>
> Wear proper gear
>
> Wes
>
> On Mon, Mar 20, 2017 at 1:44 PM, Gordon Laco via Public-List <
> public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:
>
>> I second that… the idea of using a chisel and pushing makes my hair stand
>> on end… you could very easily do a lot of damage. Much better to use a
>> scraper and pull… I favour carbide blade scrapers… they are sharp out of
>> the package, stay sharp for years, and you have a lot of control over where
>> you’re digging…
>>
>> Gord #426
>>
>> On 2017-03-20, 1:02 PM, "Public-List on behalf of Chris Martin via
>> Public-List" <public-list-bounces at lists.alberg30.org on behalf of
>> public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:
>>
>> Be careful. I use paint scrapers and sharpen them regularly. I still
>> make a few nicks or deep scratches that I fill with epoxy. A little extra
>> paint doesnt bother me, as long as its attached to the hull. Scrape off the
>> loose stuff and paint.
>> Maybe its a built in reason for being slow? :)
>>
>> From: Anders Bro via Public-List <public-list at lists.alberg30.org
>> To: Greg Dawson <gregdaws at aol.co.uk>; Alberg 30 Public List -- open
>> to all <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
>> Sent: Saturday, March 18, 2017 12:51 PM
>> Subject: Re: [Public-List] Use of Chisels
>>
>> HI Greg,
>>
>> As of now, I don't have much experience, but I tried it, as you
>> suggest, using the chisel the wrong way around. In this manner, I seemed to
>> have a bit more control. The sharp edge of the chisel seemed to find its
>> way underneath the soft paint and rode above the harder under layers. I
>> expect that in my case, it is not gelcoat, but rather an epoxy barrier
>> coat. In my limited experience, I didn't have any problem in sliding over
>> the harder underlayer. As the bottom paint adhered better, I had to use a
>> smidge more down pressure. I tried it with the chisel right side up... and
>> was a bit nervous. The PS commenter said that he used smaller width chisels
>> on the more resistant paint, but heck if you can strip the majority of the
>> boat in this manner, that would make a huge inroad along the path of
>> stripping. I did note that the taste of copper was on my tongue after my 1
>> minute trial, so there is still something nasty in the air, suggesting the
>> use of a mask, even though the majority
>> of the paint is coming off in chunks.
>>
>> I would wonder if this chisel approach would work with a hard paint as
>> opposed to the much softer ablative paint. As far as action goes, it looks
>> like in some instances the paint is being cut, in others it feels like the
>> chisel is splitting the paint off the undercoat. As the PS commenter
>> suggested, the chisels will need frequent sharpening. I notices a slight
>> dulling in my limited experiment...
>>
>> He also suggested using a 2" wide chisel for the initial effort,
>> followed by narrower ones for the more stubbornly adhered paint. As soon as
>> the eBay 2" slick comes in, I will give it a try... (could it be too wide,
>> making it more difficult to move through the paint???) My paint is also
>> about 1/8" thick.
>>
>> I hope this helps.
>>
>> Anders
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> > On Mar 18, 2017, at 12:29 PM, Greg Dawson via Public-List <
>> public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:
>> >
>> >
>> > So I have the same problem with removing antifouling paint and in my
>> case the previous owner claims to have stripped the boat and applied a
>> barrier coat before applying the antifouling. In truth I think that he
>> simply applied antifouling paint over what was already there. I too have
>> looked at the various options and found them all very costly whilst being
>> potentially very environmentally unfriendly.
>> >
>> > By accident whilst digging around my rudder mountings discovered
>> that a standard paint scraper worked quite well (the kind that looks like a
>> screwdriver with a blade attached). At least on the thick areas. As my
>> antifouling is up to 1/8th of an inch in places it flew off. When you say
>> using the flat edge do you mean effectively upside down? I'm going to try
>> this, hopefully without gouging large chunks out of the gel coat....
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