[Public-List] Public-List Digest, Vol 3651, Issue 1
charles pleisse
velocharles1 at gmail.com
Fri Jun 1 11:05:05 PDT 2018
Tef-Gel is your friend. Use it for re-assemble. Best stuff ever for
dis-similar metal fasteners.
Charles Pleisse
College Park Bicycles
( <http://www.bike123.com>301)864-2211
On Fri, Jun 1, 2018 at 10:20 AM, <public-list-request at lists.alberg30.org>
wrote:
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> Today's Topics:
>
> 1. Damn screws (George Dinwiddie)
> 2. Re: Damn screws (Gordon Laco)
> 3. Re: Damn screws (Hans Thomas)
> 4. Re: Damn screws (George Dinwiddie)
> 5. Re: Damn screws (Gordon Laco)
> 6. Re: Damn screws (Anders Bro)
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Fri, 1 Jun 2018 08:48:01 -0400
> From: George Dinwiddie <gdinwiddie at alberg30.org>
> To: public-list at lists.alberg30.org
> Subject: [Public-List] Damn screws
> Message-ID: <26632CEE-230A-4F07-9E27-D04B885501DA at alberg30.org>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
>
> Why does Whale use stainless screws in an aluminum pump? Any suggestions
> for removing a stuck flapper screw without destroying the screw or rubber
> flapper valve?
>
> George
>
> Sent from a primitive pocket computer. Please assume all errors are due to
> that.
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Fri, 1 Jun 2018 08:59:38 -0400
> From: Gordon Laco <mainstay at csolve.net>
> To: Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all
> <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
> Cc: George Dinwiddie <gdinwiddie at alberg30.org>
> Subject: Re: [Public-List] Damn screws
> Message-ID: <6B96131B-B625-4CE7-A2EC-031BE7F211C5 at csolve.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
>
> Normally I?d suggest heat - but that will destroy the rubber flap valve.
> Are you replacing it? Perhaps you don?t care if the valve that?s in place
> is destroyed. I had success heating a cast aluminium windlass body as a
> step toward removing an oxidized-in stainless screw in the chain stripper.
>
> I recall an article in a yachting magazine about fighting reluctant
> screws?
>
> #1 - Never let the screw ever think there is any possibility it might
> win. It is going to lose and come out and there must never be any doubt
> about that either in your mind, or on the part of the screw.
> #2 - Address the screw. Cursing is beneficial, the more creativity the
> better? volume is not required, in fact silent cursing may be the most
> effective preamble of all.
> #3 - Get the screw?s attention. Place a properly fitting screw driver in
> its head, and rap sharply with a hammer. (this is actually good advice
> because the shocks will tend to dislodge the aluminium oxide that is
> gripping it)
> #4 - soak with penetrating oil, and let it sit a bit, then go back to #2
> and proceed again until final victory.
> #5 - apply gentle but relentless torque with your screw driver, sharply
> rapping with the hammer?be careful with the torque, you could break the
> screw. you may be tempted to put a wrench on your screwdriver for
> leverage? this is dangerous. A broken head means the screw won a round.
>
> Gord
> #426 Surprise
>
>
>
> > On Jun 1, 2018, at 8:48 AM, George Dinwiddie via Public-List <
> public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:
> >
> > Why does Whale use stainless screws in an aluminum pump? Any suggestions
> for removing a stuck flapper screw without destroying the screw or rubber
> flapper valve?
> >
> > George
> >
> > Sent from a primitive pocket computer. Please assume all errors are due
> to that.
> > _______________________________________________
> > These businesses support your Association:
> > http://www.alberg30.org/store/A30supporters.html
> > Please support them.
> > _______________________________________________
> > Public-List mailing list
> > Public-List at lists.alberg30.org
> > http://lists.alberg30.org/listinfo.cgi/public-list-alberg30.org
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 3
> Date: Fri, 1 Jun 2018 13:06:48 +0000 (GMT)
> From: Hans Thomas <hthomas at mbari.org>
> To: Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all
> <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
> Subject: Re: [Public-List] Damn screws
> Message-ID: <5A1F2A48-1975-431C-AB1F-0FA8AA5B8608 at mbari.org>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8
>
> Penetrating oil and a hammer screw drive (the battery operated ones work
> great but make sure the drive is well fitted to the screw). When you
> reassemble use never seize or some other anti seize compound on screws.
> Whale pumps are actually a bit of a maintenance hog. I open mine up and
> inspect/clean/make sure screws turn twice a year.
>
> Hans
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Jun 1, 2018, at 6:00 AM, Gordon Laco via Public-List <
> public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:
> >
> > Normally I?d suggest heat - but that will destroy the rubber flap
> valve. Are you replacing it? Perhaps you don?t care if the valve that?s
> in place is destroyed. I had success heating a cast aluminium windlass
> body as a step toward removing an oxidized-in stainless screw in the chain
> stripper.
> >
> > I recall an article in a yachting magazine about fighting reluctant
> screws?
> >
> > #1 - Never let the screw ever think there is any possibility it might
> win. It is going to lose and come out and there must never be any doubt
> about that either in your mind, or on the part of the screw.
> > #2 - Address the screw. Cursing is beneficial, the more creativity the
> better? volume is not required, in fact silent cursing may be the most
> effective preamble of all.
> > #3 - Get the screw?s attention. Place a properly fitting screw driver
> in its head, and rap sharply with a hammer. (this is actually good advice
> because the shocks will tend to dislodge the aluminium oxide that is
> gripping it)
> > #4 - soak with penetrating oil, and let it sit a bit, then go back to #2
> and proceed again until final victory.
> > #5 - apply gentle but relentless torque with your screw driver, sharply
> rapping with the hammer?be careful with the torque, you could break the
> screw. you may be tempted to put a wrench on your screwdriver for
> leverage? this is dangerous. A broken head means the screw won a round.
> >
> > Gord
> > #426 Surprise
> >
> >
> >
> >> On Jun 1, 2018, at 8:48 AM, George Dinwiddie via Public-List <
> public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:
> >>
> >> Why does Whale use stainless screws in an aluminum pump? Any
> suggestions for removing a stuck flapper screw without destroying the screw
> or rubber flapper valve?
> >>
> >> George
> >>
> >> Sent from a primitive pocket computer. Please assume all errors are due
> to that.
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> These businesses support your Association:
> >> http://www.alberg30.org/store/A30supporters.html
> >> Please support them.
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> Public-List mailing list
> >> Public-List at lists.alberg30.org
> >> http://lists.alberg30.org/listinfo.cgi/public-list-alberg30.org
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > These businesses support your Association:
> > http://www.alberg30.org/store/A30supporters.html
> > Please support them.
> > _______________________________________________
> > Public-List mailing list
> > Public-List at lists.alberg30.org
> > http://lists.alberg30.org/listinfo.cgi/public-list-alberg30.org
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 4
> Date: Fri, 1 Jun 2018 09:49:24 -0400
> From: George Dinwiddie <gdinwiddie at alberg30.org>
> To: public-list at lists.alberg30.org
> Subject: Re: [Public-List] Damn screws
> Message-ID: <cdfc931d-a0f8-cad5-edcd-9f6ae1978a94 at alberg30.org>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed
>
> Thanks Gord and Hans,
>
> On 6/1/18 9:06 AM, Hans Thomas wrote:
> > Penetrating oil and a hammer screw drive (the battery operated ones
> > work great but make sure the drive is well fitted to the screw).
>
> I tried my 1/2" hand impact tool, but don't have a bit small enough to
> fit the screw
>
>
> > When you reassemble use never seize or some other anti seize compound on
> screws.
>
> I generally like to do this, but wonder about the addition of more
> metals to the mix. I've also used RTV caulk or Vaseline in a pinch. I've
> never found anything that seems to work between stainless and aluminum.
>
> > Whale pumps are actually a bit of a maintenance hog. I open mine up
> > and inspect/clean/make sure screws turn twice a year.
> Perhaps that's my problem. I expect things to keep working. I don't have
> the time to rebuild everything all the time.
>
> >> On Jun 1, 2018, at 6:00 AM, Gordon Laco wrote:
> >>
> >> Normally I?d suggest heat - but that will destroy the rubber flap
> >> valve. Are you replacing it? Perhaps you don?t care if the valve
> >> that?s in place is destroyed. I had success heating a cast
> >> aluminium windlass body as a step toward removing an oxidized-in
> >> stainless screw in the chain stripper.
> I'm hoping to reuse this flap valve, as it's still working. It's the
> other one that had taken a set and quit sealing, and I seem to only have
> one spare at the moment.
>
> I'm taking it out so I can clean and repaint the inside of the pump
> since I've got the unlikely circumstance of repairing it while at the
> dock instead of at sea.
>
> >>
> >> I recall an article in a yachting magazine about fighting reluctant
> screws?
> >>
> >> #1 - Never let the screw ever think there is any possibility it
> >> might win. It is going to lose and come out and there must never
> >> be any doubt about that either in your mind, or on the part of the
> >> screw. >> #2 - Address the screw. Cursing is beneficial, the more
> creativity
> >> the better? volume is not required, in fact silent cursing may be
> >> the most effective preamble of all.
> I've done this part well.
>
> >> #3 - Get the screw?s attention. Place a properly fitting screw
> >> driver in its head, and rap sharply with a hammer. (this is
> >> actually good advice because the shocks will tend to dislodge the
> >> aluminium oxide that is gripping it) >> #4 - soak with penetrating oil,
> and let it sit a bit, then go back
> >> to #2 and proceed again until final victory.
> I'm wondering if the rubber flapper is preventing the penetrating oil
> from penetrating the metal-to-metal contact.
>
> >> #5 - apply gentle but relentless torque with your screw driver,
> >> sharply rapping with the hammer?be careful with the torque, you
> >> could break the screw. you may be tempted to put a wrench on your
> >> screwdriver for leverage? this is dangerous. A broken head means
> >> the screw won a round.
>
> The screwdriver has already slipped once, slightly damaging the slot. I
> fear that this has given the screw courage.
>
> - George
>
> --
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> When I remember bygone days George Dinwiddie
> I think how evening follows morn; gdinwiddie at alberg30.org
> So many I loved were not yet dead, http://www.Alberg30.org
> So many I love were not yet born. also see:
> 'The Middle' by Ogden Nash http://idiacomputing.com
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 5
> Date: Fri, 1 Jun 2018 09:55:52 -0400
> From: Gordon Laco <mainstay at csolve.net>
> To: Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all
> <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
> Cc: George Dinwiddie <gdinwiddie at alberg30.org>
> Subject: Re: [Public-List] Damn screws
> Message-ID: <F44BB1A0-F06A-4255-82FC-22DA6F95D680 at csolve.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
>
> Hello friends?
>
> In our Voyager self steering vanes, we have stainless steel machine screws
> in our cast aluminium bodies? we bed the screws in waxy grease? we?ve tried
> many specialized compounds but have settled on what the Navy uses? that is
> the waxy grease that comes from the hardware store in the form of the donut
> used to seal toilet installations. That stuff is incredibly tenacious?
> works very well for a long time.
>
> Gordon Laco
> www.gordonlaco.com
>
>
>
>
> > On Jun 1, 2018, at 9:49 AM, George Dinwiddie via Public-List <
> public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:
> >
> > Thanks Gord and Hans,
> >
> > On 6/1/18 9:06 AM, Hans Thomas wrote:
> >> Penetrating oil and a hammer screw drive (the battery operated ones
> > > work great but make sure the drive is well fitted to the screw).
> >
> > I tried my 1/2" hand impact tool, but don't have a bit small enough to
> fit the screw
> >
> >
> >> When you reassemble use never seize or some other anti seize compound
> on screws.
> >
> > I generally like to do this, but wonder about the addition of more
> metals to the mix. I've also used RTV caulk or Vaseline in a pinch. I've
> never found anything that seems to work between stainless and aluminum.
> >
> >> Whale pumps are actually a bit of a maintenance hog. I open mine up
> >> and inspect/clean/make sure screws turn twice a year.
> > Perhaps that's my problem. I expect things to keep working. I don't have
> the time to rebuild everything all the time.
> >
> >>> On Jun 1, 2018, at 6:00 AM, Gordon Laco wrote:
> >>>
> >>> Normally I?d suggest heat - but that will destroy the rubber flap
> >>> valve. Are you replacing it? Perhaps you don?t care if the valve
> >>> that?s in place is destroyed. I had success heating a cast
> >>> aluminium windlass body as a step toward removing an oxidized-in
> >>> stainless screw in the chain stripper.
> > I'm hoping to reuse this flap valve, as it's still working. It's the
> other one that had taken a set and quit sealing, and I seem to only have
> one spare at the moment.
> >
> > I'm taking it out so I can clean and repaint the inside of the pump
> since I've got the unlikely circumstance of repairing it while at the dock
> instead of at sea.
> >
> >>>
> >>> I recall an article in a yachting magazine about fighting reluctant
> screws?
> >>>
> >>> #1 - Never let the screw ever think there is any possibility it
> >>> might win. It is going to lose and come out and there must never
> >>> be any doubt about that either in your mind, or on the part of the
> >>> screw. >> #2 - Address the screw. Cursing is beneficial, the more
> creativity
> >>> the better? volume is not required, in fact silent cursing may be
> >>> the most effective preamble of all.
> > I've done this part well.
> >
> >>> #3 - Get the screw?s attention. Place a properly fitting screw
> >>> driver in its head, and rap sharply with a hammer. (this is
> >>> actually good advice because the shocks will tend to dislodge the
> >>> aluminium oxide that is gripping it) >> #4 - soak with penetrating
> oil, and let it sit a bit, then go back
> >>> to #2 and proceed again until final victory.
> > I'm wondering if the rubber flapper is preventing the penetrating oil
> from penetrating the metal-to-metal contact.
> >
> >>> #5 - apply gentle but relentless torque with your screw driver,
> >>> sharply rapping with the hammer?be careful with the torque, you
> >>> could break the screw. you may be tempted to put a wrench on your
> >>> screwdriver for leverage? this is dangerous. A broken head means
> >>> the screw won a round.
> >
> > The screwdriver has already slipped once, slightly damaging the slot. I
> fear that this has given the screw courage.
> >
> > - George
> >
> > --
> > ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> > When I remember bygone days George Dinwiddie
> > I think how evening follows morn; gdinwiddie at alberg30.org
> > So many I loved were not yet dead, http://www.Alberg30.org
> > So many I love were not yet born. also see:
> > 'The Middle' by Ogden Nash http://idiacomputing.com
> > ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> >
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > These businesses support your Association:
> > http://www.alberg30.org/store/A30supporters.html
> > Please support them.
> > _______________________________________________
> > Public-List mailing list
> > Public-List at lists.alberg30.org
> > http://lists.alberg30.org/listinfo.cgi/public-list-alberg30.org
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 6
> Date: Fri, 1 Jun 2018 10:20:37 -0400
> From: Anders Bro <abro.gtu at gmail.com>
> To: Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all
> <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
> Subject: Re: [Public-List] Damn screws
> Message-ID:
> <CACEd84u8R0BezsROzcUFM194-LUcvLc_hfGLMeYX5CesO38qmg@
> mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8"
>
> And how does tuff-gel fare compared to the toilet ring seal (I do like that
> one!). I was under the impression that tuff-gel (I believe thick silicon
> grease with super fine Teflon particles. I have a small jar and it is
> incredibly tenacious.) was formulated for exactly such needs - dissimilar
> metals.
>
> Anders
>
> On Fri, Jun 1, 2018, 9:55 AM Gordon Laco via Public-List <
> public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:
>
> > Hello friends?
> >
> > In our Voyager self steering vanes, we have stainless steel machine
> screws
> > in our cast aluminium bodies? we bed the screws in waxy grease? we?ve
> tried
> > many specialized compounds but have settled on what the Navy uses? that
> is
> > the waxy grease that comes from the hardware store in the form of the
> donut
> > used to seal toilet installations. That stuff is incredibly tenacious?
> > works very well for a long time.
> >
> > Gordon Laco
> > www.gordonlaco.com
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > > On Jun 1, 2018, at 9:49 AM, George Dinwiddie via Public-List <
> > public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:
> > >
> > > Thanks Gord and Hans,
> > >
> > > On 6/1/18 9:06 AM, Hans Thomas wrote:
> > >> Penetrating oil and a hammer screw drive (the battery operated ones
> > > > work great but make sure the drive is well fitted to the screw).
> > >
> > > I tried my 1/2" hand impact tool, but don't have a bit small enough to
> > fit the screw
> > >
> > >
> > >> When you reassemble use never seize or some other anti seize compound
> > on screws.
> > >
> > > I generally like to do this, but wonder about the addition of more
> > metals to the mix. I've also used RTV caulk or Vaseline in a pinch. I've
> > never found anything that seems to work between stainless and aluminum.
> > >
> > >> Whale pumps are actually a bit of a maintenance hog. I open mine up
> > >> and inspect/clean/make sure screws turn twice a year.
> > > Perhaps that's my problem. I expect things to keep working. I don't
> have
> > the time to rebuild everything all the time.
> > >
> > >>> On Jun 1, 2018, at 6:00 AM, Gordon Laco wrote:
> > >>>
> > >>> Normally I?d suggest heat - but that will destroy the rubber flap
> > >>> valve. Are you replacing it? Perhaps you don?t care if the valve
> > >>> that?s in place is destroyed. I had success heating a cast
> > >>> aluminium windlass body as a step toward removing an oxidized-in
> > >>> stainless screw in the chain stripper.
> > > I'm hoping to reuse this flap valve, as it's still working. It's the
> > other one that had taken a set and quit sealing, and I seem to only have
> > one spare at the moment.
> > >
> > > I'm taking it out so I can clean and repaint the inside of the pump
> > since I've got the unlikely circumstance of repairing it while at the
> dock
> > instead of at sea.
> > >
> > >>>
> > >>> I recall an article in a yachting magazine about fighting reluctant
> > screws?
> > >>>
> > >>> #1 - Never let the screw ever think there is any possibility it
> > >>> might win. It is going to lose and come out and there must never
> > >>> be any doubt about that either in your mind, or on the part of the
> > >>> screw. >> #2 - Address the screw. Cursing is beneficial, the more
> > creativity
> > >>> the better? volume is not required, in fact silent cursing may be
> > >>> the most effective preamble of all.
> > > I've done this part well.
> > >
> > >>> #3 - Get the screw?s attention. Place a properly fitting screw
> > >>> driver in its head, and rap sharply with a hammer. (this is
> > >>> actually good advice because the shocks will tend to dislodge the
> > >>> aluminium oxide that is gripping it) >> #4 - soak with penetrating
> > oil, and let it sit a bit, then go back
> > >>> to #2 and proceed again until final victory.
> > > I'm wondering if the rubber flapper is preventing the penetrating oil
> > from penetrating the metal-to-metal contact.
> > >
> > >>> #5 - apply gentle but relentless torque with your screw driver,
> > >>> sharply rapping with the hammer?be careful with the torque, you
> > >>> could break the screw. you may be tempted to put a wrench on your
> > >>> screwdriver for leverage? this is dangerous. A broken head means
> > >>> the screw won a round.
> > >
> > > The screwdriver has already slipped once, slightly damaging the slot. I
> > fear that this has given the screw courage.
> > >
> > > - George
> > >
> > > --
> > > ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> > > When I remember bygone days George Dinwiddie
> > > I think how evening follows morn; gdinwiddie at alberg30.org
> > > So many I loved were not yet dead, http://www.Alberg30.org
> > > So many I love were not yet born. also see:
> > > 'The Middle' by Ogden Nash http://idiacomputing.com
> > > ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > These businesses support your Association:
> > > http://www.alberg30.org/store/A30supporters.html
> > > Please support them.
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > Public-List mailing list
> > > Public-List at lists.alberg30.org
> > > http://lists.alberg30.org/listinfo.cgi/public-list-alberg30.org
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > These businesses support your Association:
> > http://www.alberg30.org/store/A30supporters.html
> > Please support them.
> > _______________________________________________
> > Public-List mailing list
> > Public-List at lists.alberg30.org
> > http://lists.alberg30.org/listinfo.cgi/public-list-alberg30.org
> >
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Subject: Digest Footer
>
> _______________________________________________
> These businesses support your Association:
> http://www.alberg30.org/store/A30supporters.html
> Please support them.
> _______________________________________________
> Public-List mailing list
> Public-List at lists.alberg30.org
> http://lists.alberg30.org/listinfo.cgi/public-list-alberg30.org
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> End of Public-List Digest, Vol 3651, Issue 1
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