[Public-List] Damn screws

Anders Bro abro.gtu at gmail.com
Fri Jun 1 07:56:08 PDT 2018 

Oops sorry - the proper spelling is "Ultra Tef Gel". I heard of it through
Practical Sailor.
Anders

On Fri, Jun 1, 2018, 10:53 AM Gordon Laco via Public-List <
public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:

> Hello Anders - I don’t recall that one…. sorry.
>
>
> Gordon Laco
> www.gordonlaco.com
>
>
>
>
> > On Jun 1, 2018, at 10:20 AM, Anders Bro via Public-List <
> public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:
> >
> > And how does tuff-gel fare compared to the toilet ring seal (I do like
> that
> > one!). I was under the impression that tuff-gel (I believe thick silicon
> > grease with super fine Teflon particles. I have a small jar and it is
> > incredibly tenacious.) was formulated for exactly such needs - dissimilar
> > metals.
> >
> > Anders
> >
> > On Fri, Jun 1, 2018, 9:55 AM Gordon Laco via Public-List <
> > public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:
> >
> >> Hello friends…
> >>
> >> In our Voyager self steering vanes, we have stainless steel machine
> screws
> >> in our cast aluminium bodies… we bed the screws in waxy grease… we’ve
> tried
> >> many specialized compounds but have settled on what the Navy uses… that
> is
> >> the waxy grease that comes from the hardware store in the form of the
> donut
> >> used to seal toilet installations.  That stuff is incredibly tenacious…
> >> works very well for a long time.
> >>
> >> Gordon Laco
> >> www.gordonlaco.com
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>> On Jun 1, 2018, at 9:49 AM, George Dinwiddie via Public-List <
> >> public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:
> >>>
> >>> Thanks Gord and Hans,
> >>>
> >>> On 6/1/18 9:06 AM, Hans Thomas wrote:
> >>>> Penetrating oil and a hammer screw drive (the battery operated ones
> >>>> work great but make sure the drive is well fitted to the screw).
> >>>
> >>> I tried my 1/2" hand impact tool, but don't have a bit small enough to
> >> fit the screw
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>> When you reassemble use never seize or some other anti seize compound
> >> on screws.
> >>>
> >>> I generally like to do this, but wonder about the addition of more
> >> metals to the mix. I've also used RTV caulk or Vaseline in a pinch. I've
> >> never found anything that seems to work between stainless and aluminum.
> >>>
> >>>> Whale pumps are actually a bit of a maintenance hog. I open mine up
> >>>> and inspect/clean/make sure screws turn twice a year.
> >>> Perhaps that's my problem. I expect things to keep working. I don't
> have
> >> the time to rebuild everything all the time.
> >>>
> >>>>> On Jun 1, 2018, at 6:00 AM, Gordon Laco wrote:
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Normally I’d suggest heat - but that will destroy the rubber flap
> >>>>> valve.   Are you replacing it?  Perhaps you don’t care if the valve
> >>>>> that’s in place is destroyed.   I had success heating a cast
> >>>>> aluminium windlass body as a step toward removing an oxidized-in
> >>>>> stainless screw in the chain stripper.
> >>> I'm hoping to reuse this flap valve, as it's still working. It's the
> >> other one that had taken a set and quit sealing, and I seem to only have
> >> one spare at the moment.
> >>>
> >>> I'm taking it out so I can clean and repaint the inside of the pump
> >> since I've got the unlikely circumstance of repairing it while at the
> dock
> >> instead of at sea.
> >>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>> I recall an article in a yachting magazine about fighting reluctant
> >> screws…
> >>>>>
> >>>>> #1 - Never let the screw ever think there is any possibility it
> >>>>> might win.  It is going to lose and come out and there must never
> >>>>> be any doubt about that either in your mind, or on the part of the
> >>>>> screw. >> #2 - Address the screw.  Cursing is beneficial, the more
> >> creativity
> >>>>> the better… volume is not required, in fact silent cursing may be
> >>>>> the most effective preamble of all.
> >>> I've done this part well.
> >>>
> >>>>> #3 - Get the screw’s attention.  Place a properly fitting screw
> >>>>> driver in its head, and rap sharply with a hammer. (this is
> >>>>> actually good advice because the shocks will tend to dislodge the
> >>>>> aluminium oxide that is gripping it) >> #4 - soak with penetrating
> >> oil, and let it sit a bit, then go back
> >>>>> to #2 and proceed again until final victory.
> >>> I'm wondering if the rubber flapper is preventing the penetrating oil
> >> from penetrating the metal-to-metal contact.
> >>>
> >>>>> #5 - apply gentle but relentless torque with your screw driver,
> >>>>> sharply rapping with the hammer…be careful with the torque, you
> >>>>> could break the screw.  you may be tempted to put a wrench on your
> >>>>> screwdriver for leverage… this is dangerous.  A broken head means
> >>>>> the screw won a round.
> >>>
> >>> The screwdriver has already slipped once, slightly damaging the slot. I
> >> fear that this has given the screw courage.
> >>>
> >>> - George
> >>>
> >>> --
> >>> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> >>> When I remember bygone days                         George Dinwiddie
> >>> I think how evening follows morn;            gdinwiddie at alberg30.org
> >>> So many I loved were not yet dead,           http://www.Alberg30.org
> >>> So many I love were not yet born.                          also see:
> >>>              'The Middle' by Ogden Nash     http://idiacomputing.com
> >>> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
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