[Public-List] Damn screws

Gordon Laco mainstay at csolve.net
Fri Jun 1 08:01:44 PDT 2018 

Sorry Anders, still don’t know that product.  Perhaps our employees do, I’ll ask.

Gordon Laco
www.gordonlaco.com




> On Jun 1, 2018, at 10:56 AM, Anders Bro via Public-List <public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:
> 
> Oops sorry - the proper spelling is "Ultra Tef Gel". I heard of it through
> Practical Sailor.
> Anders
> 
> On Fri, Jun 1, 2018, 10:53 AM Gordon Laco via Public-List <
> public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:
> 
>> Hello Anders - I don’t recall that one…. sorry.
>> 
>> 
>> Gordon Laco
>> www.gordonlaco.com
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>> On Jun 1, 2018, at 10:20 AM, Anders Bro via Public-List <
>> public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:
>>> 
>>> And how does tuff-gel fare compared to the toilet ring seal (I do like
>> that
>>> one!). I was under the impression that tuff-gel (I believe thick silicon
>>> grease with super fine Teflon particles. I have a small jar and it is
>>> incredibly tenacious.) was formulated for exactly such needs - dissimilar
>>> metals.
>>> 
>>> Anders
>>> 
>>> On Fri, Jun 1, 2018, 9:55 AM Gordon Laco via Public-List <
>>> public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:
>>> 
>>>> Hello friends…
>>>> 
>>>> In our Voyager self steering vanes, we have stainless steel machine
>> screws
>>>> in our cast aluminium bodies… we bed the screws in waxy grease… we’ve
>> tried
>>>> many specialized compounds but have settled on what the Navy uses… that
>> is
>>>> the waxy grease that comes from the hardware store in the form of the
>> donut
>>>> used to seal toilet installations.  That stuff is incredibly tenacious…
>>>> works very well for a long time.
>>>> 
>>>> Gordon Laco
>>>> www.gordonlaco.com
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>>> On Jun 1, 2018, at 9:49 AM, George Dinwiddie via Public-List <
>>>> public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:
>>>>> 
>>>>> Thanks Gord and Hans,
>>>>> 
>>>>> On 6/1/18 9:06 AM, Hans Thomas wrote:
>>>>>> Penetrating oil and a hammer screw drive (the battery operated ones
>>>>>> work great but make sure the drive is well fitted to the screw).
>>>>> 
>>>>> I tried my 1/2" hand impact tool, but don't have a bit small enough to
>>>> fit the screw
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>>> When you reassemble use never seize or some other anti seize compound
>>>> on screws.
>>>>> 
>>>>> I generally like to do this, but wonder about the addition of more
>>>> metals to the mix. I've also used RTV caulk or Vaseline in a pinch. I've
>>>> never found anything that seems to work between stainless and aluminum.
>>>>> 
>>>>>> Whale pumps are actually a bit of a maintenance hog. I open mine up
>>>>>> and inspect/clean/make sure screws turn twice a year.
>>>>> Perhaps that's my problem. I expect things to keep working. I don't
>> have
>>>> the time to rebuild everything all the time.
>>>>> 
>>>>>>> On Jun 1, 2018, at 6:00 AM, Gordon Laco wrote:
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> Normally I’d suggest heat - but that will destroy the rubber flap
>>>>>>> valve.   Are you replacing it?  Perhaps you don’t care if the valve
>>>>>>> that’s in place is destroyed.   I had success heating a cast
>>>>>>> aluminium windlass body as a step toward removing an oxidized-in
>>>>>>> stainless screw in the chain stripper.
>>>>> I'm hoping to reuse this flap valve, as it's still working. It's the
>>>> other one that had taken a set and quit sealing, and I seem to only have
>>>> one spare at the moment.
>>>>> 
>>>>> I'm taking it out so I can clean and repaint the inside of the pump
>>>> since I've got the unlikely circumstance of repairing it while at the
>> dock
>>>> instead of at sea.
>>>>> 
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> I recall an article in a yachting magazine about fighting reluctant
>>>> screws…
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> #1 - Never let the screw ever think there is any possibility it
>>>>>>> might win.  It is going to lose and come out and there must never
>>>>>>> be any doubt about that either in your mind, or on the part of the
>>>>>>> screw. >> #2 - Address the screw.  Cursing is beneficial, the more
>>>> creativity
>>>>>>> the better… volume is not required, in fact silent cursing may be
>>>>>>> the most effective preamble of all.
>>>>> I've done this part well.
>>>>> 
>>>>>>> #3 - Get the screw’s attention.  Place a properly fitting screw
>>>>>>> driver in its head, and rap sharply with a hammer. (this is
>>>>>>> actually good advice because the shocks will tend to dislodge the
>>>>>>> aluminium oxide that is gripping it) >> #4 - soak with penetrating
>>>> oil, and let it sit a bit, then go back
>>>>>>> to #2 and proceed again until final victory.
>>>>> I'm wondering if the rubber flapper is preventing the penetrating oil
>>>> from penetrating the metal-to-metal contact.
>>>>> 
>>>>>>> #5 - apply gentle but relentless torque with your screw driver,
>>>>>>> sharply rapping with the hammer…be careful with the torque, you
>>>>>>> could break the screw.  you may be tempted to put a wrench on your
>>>>>>> screwdriver for leverage… this is dangerous.  A broken head means
>>>>>>> the screw won a round.
>>>>> 
>>>>> The screwdriver has already slipped once, slightly damaging the slot. I
>>>> fear that this has given the screw courage.
>>>>> 
>>>>> - George
>>>>> 
>>>>> --
>>>>> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>>>>> When I remember bygone days                         George Dinwiddie
>>>>> I think how evening follows morn;            gdinwiddie at alberg30.org
>>>>> So many I loved were not yet dead,           http://www.Alberg30.org
>>>>> So many I love were not yet born.                          also see:
>>>>>             'The Middle' by Ogden Nash     http://idiacomputing.com
>>>>> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
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