[Public-List] Which caulk for cockpit teak combing joining to fiberglass?

Andrew Johns johnsab9 at gmail.com
Mon Nov 12 06:42:45 PST 2018


We still have the original varnished teak cockpit combings on Ecola (104).
It has been bedded about 15 years ago with 3M 4200 with a thin bead at the
top edge were the deck meets the combing.

If your looking for a lower maintenance alternative, maybe starbrite board
or painted marine ply with a teak cap?

On Mon, Nov 12, 2018 at 9:28 AM jreadams6 via Public-List <
public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:

> Yes - it is that blackness that looks bad, and who can keep varnish
> completely sealed - sooner or later...
>
> I need to make sure all my videos are up on you tube - did you see this
> one? https://youtu.be/SRaUVrHdCZ4
>
> It is g a good thing that the Chesapeake has a mud bottom! This starts with
> a team mate saying that I can go on teh other side of that "thing"
> (marker). That never ends well.
>
> Jonathan
>
> On Mon, Nov 12, 2018 at 9:18 AM Gordon Laco <mainstay at csolve.net> wrote:
>
> > Good morning Jonathan -
> >
> > I am guessing that in Option 1 you are referring to red oak.  That wood
> is
> > not appropriate for marine use.  White oak, in complete contrast, is very
> > durable, very close grained, and does indeed take finishes well.
> >
> > Both varieties of oak can be successfully varnished - there’s no need for
> > ridges etc to remain if normal sanding and coating is applied.   But red
> > oak will rot quickly.  White oak may last centuries if it’s looked after.
> >
> > When varnished, white oak has a bright blonde colour… I’d say the only
> > disadvantage it has is that it has a tendency to turn black if water gets
> > through the varnish.
> >
> > Gordon Laco
> > www.gordonlaco.com
> >
> > PS I’ve just discovered the on-line coverage of your club’s racing on
> > youtube.  Saw you and your boat in a couple of the races. You certainly
> > sail in heavy traffic sometimes!
> >
> >
> >
> > On Nov 12, 2018, at 9:10 AM, jreadams6 via Public-List <
> > public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:
> >
> > I did what Mercelo did with the D shaped seal and also used caulking. It
> > still leaks enough to need some caulking maintenance this year - it leaks
> > in an area that got bashed in a jibe, so maybe not the seal's fault. Some
> > comments on the other posts:
> >
> > 1. Oak is much cheaper, but does not wear well at all and is hard to
> > maintain - it is a hard wood, with ridges that collect water, dirt and
> > ultimately mold. Many people when using Oak in furniture will fill the
> > ridges with a filler befor finishing it. I have seen boats that use oak
> and
> > it is not pretty over time. You could probably use a different wood that
> > would not be that much more expensive - mahogony comes to mind.
> >
> > 2. On leaving a gap with washers, this is interesting. On the  one hand
> it
> > keeps the area under the wood from getting wet and staying wet - which
> > makes it impossible for any varnish to stay on. However, then your butt
> > gets wet when you are sailing in weather. I know Wes did away with the
> > coaming, but he only ever sails in the Severn River. The Alberg is  wet
> > boat upwind in any kind of seaway and breeze. The water sprays up on the
> > windward side, and then rolls down the deck to the aft end of the coaming
> > and from there can make its way to the lee side. Along the way if it can,
> > it will try and get into the cockpit.
> >
> > My $0.02.
> >
> > Jonathan
> >
> >
> > On Mon, Nov 12, 2018 at 5:20 AM Jonathan Bresler via Public-List <
> > public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:
> >
> > Randy,
> >
> > Don't know which caulk to use between the coamings and the deck.
> > With you, I am also looking forward to see what is recommended.
> >
> > Replacing the coamings with teak would be quite expensive.
> > So its quite understandable to be looking at other materials.
> > Wes Gardner installed "mini" coamings, just enough to fill the
> > "shelf" in the fiberglass and mounted the winches directly to the
> > side decks.  If you search the list archives, expect you will find
> > his notes on this.
> >
> > You might want to consider oak coamings.  Oak is much cheaper
> > than teak and if sealed well, may last quite a number of years.
> >
> > Thoughts?
> >
> > Jonathan
> > Rather than Starboard, you might want to
> >
> > On Sun, Nov 11, 2018 at 7:45 PM Randy Katz via Public-List <
> > public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:
> >
> > Greetings, All,
> >
> > I finally got my ratty combing boards off the boat. It wasn’t that
> > difficult, but I found plugged screws in the outside quarter round (one
> >
> > at
> >
> > each end, along the deck/combing joint) that went snuggly into the deck.
> >
> > I
> >
> > wondered if this was the original installation.
> >
> > Many layers of chipped, worn Cetol have to go; I’m planning to clean and
> > oil the boards for an easier maintenance regime.
> >
> > I know that when I replace them I’ll need to caulk between the combing
> >
> > and
> >
> > their fiberglass seats, on he outside of the cockpit. I read about butyl,
> > but it seems to degrade in UV. Polysulfide seems likely, a better choice,
> > but which brand/what type?
> >
> > I understand some have replaced the teak with plastic Starboard— any
> > comments about that idea?
> >
> > Many thanks, best Regards,
> >
> > Randy Katz
> > #259 Simple Gifts
> > Seattle/Bellingham
> > --
> >
> > Randall Katz
> > 910 - 32nd Ave.
> > Seattle, WA 98122
> > 206-850-7350
> > 從我的 iPad 傳送
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> >
> > --
> > Jonathan M Bresler
> > S/V Constance Alberg 30 #262
> > Annapolis/Eastport MD
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> > --
> > Jonathan Adams
> > 443-223-2534
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> --
> Jonathan Adams
> 443-223-2534
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