[Public-List] More on the rudder discussion

Greg Dawson gregdaws at aol.co.uk
Sat Jan 19 07:02:50 PST 2019 

Hi there
I don't wish to cut into anyone elses deal but I need a rudder shoe if it is available and not already gone. I'm in Hamilton, Ontario. Where are you and what would shipping cost?
Regards
Greg  #348


-----Original Message-----
From: Jason S via Public-List <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
To: Ryan Martin via Public-List <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
Cc: Jason S <kk4mex at gmail.com>
Sent: Sat, Jan 19, 2019 8:21 am
Subject: Re: [Public-List] More on the rudder discussion

$60 plus shipping

On Fri, Jan 18, 2019, 5:46 PM Wehicks via Public-List <
public-list at lists.alberg30.org wrote:

> How much?
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Jan 17, 2019, at 9:09 AM, Jason S via Public-List <
> public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:
> >
> > Does anyone need for a brand new rudder shoe?
> >
> > On Thu, Jan 17, 2019, 9:27 AM Michael Connolly via Public-List <
> > public-list at lists.alberg30.org wrote:
> >
> >> Perfect! Could not resist. See how much fun we can have with the snow
> >> still on the ground
> >>
> >>
> >>> On January 16, 2019 at 8:56 PM Gordon Laco <mainstay at csolve.net>
> wrote:
> >>>
> >>>    Scoundrel!
> >>>
> >>>    Gord
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>>>        On Jan 16, 2019, at 7:00 PM, Michael Connolly via
> >> Public-List < public-list at lists.alberg30.org mailto:
> >> public-list at lists.alberg30.org > wrote:
> >>>>
> >>>>        Normaly rivets are set with a small air hammer set to a
> >> specified pressure. The business end of the air tool can have several
> >> different shaped "anvils' to conform to the factory head shape of the
> >> rivet. The "dolly" or "bucking bar" can also have different shapes to
> allow
> >> the formed head to take various shapes. This is for most riveting
> >> jobs......................................of course then there is Gord
> who
> >> enjoys the feel and satisfaction of a hand job. Oh gosh did I say the
> wrong
> >> thing?
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>>>> On January 16, 2019 at 3:33 PM Rod Symmes via
> >> Public-List < public-list at lists.alberg30.org mailto:
> >> public-list at lists.alberg30.org mailto:public-list at lists.alberg30.org >
> >> wrote:
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>              Gord:
> >>>>>              The only addition to your excellent description that
> >> I would make is to use the ball end of a ball/peen hammer to round over
> the
> >> rivet. It improves the mushrooming effect.
> >>>>>              Granted, all my experience is with iron rivets. Would
> >> this also be true with copper , Gord ?
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>              Cheers, Rod
> >>>>>
> >>>>>              -------- Original message --------
> >>>>>              From: Gordon Laco via Public-List
> >>>>>              Date:16-01-2019 10:59 AM (GMT-05:00)
> >>>>>              To: jonathan.adams at analyticaltern.com mailto:
> >> jonathan.adams at analyticaltern.com mailto:
> jonathan.adams at analyticaltern.com
> >> , Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all
> >>>>>              Cc: Gordon Laco
> >>>>>              Subject: Re: [Public-List] More on the rudder
> >> discussion
> >>>>>
> >>>>>              Hello Jonathan - I’ve done a fair bit of riveting in
> >> boatbuilding contexts.
> >>>>>
> >>>>>              Riveting is a very secure mode of fastening… it’s
> >> easy to remove a rivet by either grinding or drilling off the burr on
> one
> >> side, then driving the rivet out with a pin and hammer.
> >>>>>
> >>>>>              Replacing the fitting by riveting involves use of a
> >> soft metal compatible with the fitting being secured… Cut a pin such
> that
> >> when run through the hole in the structure and fitting, about 3/16”
> >> protrudes on each side. The fit in the hole needs to be tight. Place a
> >> heavy mass (called ’the dolly’) on one end of the pin, and strike the
> other
> >> protruding end of the pin with a light hammer. I’ve found that repeated
> >> lighter blows with a lighter hammer works better than fewer harder hits
> >> with a heavy hammer. I’ve successfully used a hammer heavier than the
> one
> >> I’m hitting with as a good dolly. Be very sure that before each hit with
> >> the hammer, the dolly is in contact with the rod/rivet. What you don’t
> want
> >> is for the rod to get knocked through so you lose the protruding end
> which
> >> you are trying to spread.
> >>>>>
> >>>>>              Why does the rod only spread at the protruding end?
> >> Because you ensured a tight fit in the hole, there is nowhere else it
> can
> >> spread in response to the blows.
> >>>>>
> >>>>>              Take care that the pin is remaining ‘centred’ with
> >> protrusions as equal as possible from either side… switch the side
> you’re
> >> hitting and the side with the dolly often. You’ll develop a spread on
> each
> >> end of the pin which you can encourage and develop as the hitting
> >> progresses. At some point the pin will become secure, and when that
> >> happens, you can really start riveting. What happens as the spread on
> the
> >> end is developing, is that metal is ‘flowing’ out of the shaft area of
> the
> >> pin into the spread… this forces the grip of the rivet to become very
> >> tight. Magic.
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>              Gordon Laco
> >>>>>              #426 Surprise
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>>> On Jan 16, 2019, at 10:48 AM,
> >> jreadams6 via Public-List < public-list at lists.alberg30.org mailto:
> >> public-list at lists.alberg30.org mailto:public-list at lists.alberg30.org >
> >> wrote:
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>>>                    All here are
> >> some pics of Laughing Gull's rudder and comments. anyone have
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>>>      any knowledge of the rivetted
> >> type fastenings?
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>>>
> >> https://alberg30maintenance.wordpress.com/2019/01/16/rudder-work/
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>>>                    Jonathan
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>              Jonathan Adams
> >>>>>
> >>>>>>> 443-223-2534
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