[Public-List] More on the rudder discussion
Greg Dawson
gregdaws at aol.co.uk
Sat Jan 19 14:40:28 PST 2019
Hi Jason
Work done, now I'm free to buy boat bits. My name and Address is as follows...
Greg Dawson.13 James St,Dundas,Ontario,Canada,L9H 2J4.
My Cell/home number is 289-237-1643 not sure if there is an applicable international code but it would be 001 if I was calling from the UK. Is it possible that you could see how much the shipping would be and let me know please. Assuming the shipping isn't to expensive, how would you like to be paid? I have very little experience of purchasing across the boarder other than through Amazon etc.
Thanks for getting back to me, it really is appreciated. I look forward to hearing from you shortly.
Yours sincerely.
Greg Dawson
-----Original Message-----
From: Jason S via Public-List <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
To: Ryan Martin via Public-List <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
Cc: Jason S <kk4mex at gmail.com>
Sent: Sat, Jan 19, 2019 11:33 am
Subject: Re: [Public-List] More on the rudder discussion
In Norfolk, VA....I'll check on shipping next week. It will easily fit into
a USPS boxes.....so if USPS ships to Canada shipping should not be more
than $10-15
You can email me directly at Kk4mex at gmail.com to complete the sale
Jason
On Sat, Jan 19, 2019, 10:41 AM Greg Dawson via Public-List <
public-list at lists.alberg30.org wrote:
> Hi there
> I don't wish to cut into anyone elses deal but I need a rudder shoe if it
> is available and not already gone. I'm in Hamilton, Ontario. Where are you
> and what would shipping cost?
> Regards
> Greg #348
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jason S via Public-List <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
> To: Ryan Martin via Public-List <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
> Cc: Jason S <kk4mex at gmail.com>
> Sent: Sat, Jan 19, 2019 8:21 am
> Subject: Re: [Public-List] More on the rudder discussion
>
> $60 plus shipping
>
> On Fri, Jan 18, 2019, 5:46 PM Wehicks via Public-List <
> public-list at lists.alberg30.org wrote:
>
> > How much?
> >
> > Sent from my iPhone
> >
> > > On Jan 17, 2019, at 9:09 AM, Jason S via Public-List <
> > public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:
> > >
> > > Does anyone need for a brand new rudder shoe?
> > >
> > > On Thu, Jan 17, 2019, 9:27 AM Michael Connolly via Public-List <
> > > public-list at lists.alberg30.org wrote:
> > >
> > >> Perfect! Could not resist. See how much fun we can have with the snow
> > >> still on the ground
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>> On January 16, 2019 at 8:56 PM Gordon Laco <mainstay at csolve.net>
> > wrote:
> > >>>
> > >>> Scoundrel!
> > >>>
> > >>> Gord
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >>>>> On Jan 16, 2019, at 7:00 PM, Michael Connolly via
> > >> Public-List < public-list at lists.alberg30.org mailto:
> > >> public-list at lists.alberg30.org > wrote:
> > >>>>
> > >>>> Normaly rivets are set with a small air hammer set to a
> > >> specified pressure. The business end of the air tool can have several
> > >> different shaped "anvils' to conform to the factory head shape of the
> > >> rivet. The "dolly" or "bucking bar" can also have different shapes to
> > allow
> > >> the formed head to take various shapes. This is for most riveting
> > >> jobs......................................of course then there is Gord
> > who
> > >> enjoys the feel and satisfaction of a hand job. Oh gosh did I say the
> > wrong
> > >> thing?
> > >>>>
> > >>>>
> > >>>>>>> On January 16, 2019 at 3:33 PM Rod Symmes via
> > >> Public-List < public-list at lists.alberg30.org mailto:
> > >> public-list at lists.alberg30.org mailto:public-list at lists.alberg30.org
> >
> > >> wrote:
> > >>>>>
> > >>>>>
> > >>>>> Gord:
> > >>>>> The only addition to your excellent description that
> > >> I would make is to use the ball end of a ball/peen hammer to round
> over
> > the
> > >> rivet. It improves the mushrooming effect.
> > >>>>> Granted, all my experience is with iron rivets. Would
> > >> this also be true with copper , Gord ?
> > >>>>>
> > >>>>>
> > >>>>>
> > >>>>> Cheers, Rod
> > >>>>>
> > >>>>> -------- Original message --------
> > >>>>> From: Gordon Laco via Public-List
> > >>>>> Date:16-01-2019 10:59 AM (GMT-05:00)
> > >>>>> To: jonathan.adams at analyticaltern.com mailto:
> > >> jonathan.adams at analyticaltern.com mailto:
> > jonathan.adams at analyticaltern.com
> > >> , Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all
> > >>>>> Cc: Gordon Laco
> > >>>>> Subject: Re: [Public-List] More on the rudder
> > >> discussion
> > >>>>>
> > >>>>> Hello Jonathan - I’ve done a fair bit of riveting in
> > >> boatbuilding contexts.
> > >>>>>
> > >>>>> Riveting is a very secure mode of fastening… it’s
> > >> easy to remove a rivet by either grinding or drilling off the burr on
> > one
> > >> side, then driving the rivet out with a pin and hammer.
> > >>>>>
> > >>>>> Replacing the fitting by riveting involves use of a
> > >> soft metal compatible with the fitting being secured… Cut a pin such
> > that
> > >> when run through the hole in the structure and fitting, about 3/16”
> > >> protrudes on each side. The fit in the hole needs to be tight. Place a
> > >> heavy mass (called ’the dolly’) on one end of the pin, and strike the
> > other
> > >> protruding end of the pin with a light hammer. I’ve found that
> repeated
> > >> lighter blows with a lighter hammer works better than fewer harder
> hits
> > >> with a heavy hammer. I’ve successfully used a hammer heavier than the
> > one
> > >> I’m hitting with as a good dolly. Be very sure that before each hit
> with
> > >> the hammer, the dolly is in contact with the rod/rivet. What you don’t
> > want
> > >> is for the rod to get knocked through so you lose the protruding end
> > which
> > >> you are trying to spread.
> > >>>>>
> > >>>>> Why does the rod only spread at the protruding end?
> > >> Because you ensured a tight fit in the hole, there is nowhere else it
> > can
> > >> spread in response to the blows.
> > >>>>>
> > >>>>> Take care that the pin is remaining ‘centred’ with
> > >> protrusions as equal as possible from either side… switch the side
> > you’re
> > >> hitting and the side with the dolly often. You’ll develop a spread on
> > each
> > >> end of the pin which you can encourage and develop as the hitting
> > >> progresses. At some point the pin will become secure, and when that
> > >> happens, you can really start riveting. What happens as the spread on
> > the
> > >> end is developing, is that metal is ‘flowing’ out of the shaft area of
> > the
> > >> pin into the spread… this forces the grip of the rivet to become very
> > >> tight. Magic.
> > >>>>>
> > >>>>>
> > >>>>> Gordon Laco
> > >>>>> #426 Surprise
> > >>>>>
> > >>>>>
> > >>>>>
> > >>>>>
> > >>>>>>>>>
> > >>>>>>>>>>> On Jan 16, 2019, at 10:48 AM,
> > >> jreadams6 via Public-List < public-list at lists.alberg30.org mailto:
> > >> public-list at lists.alberg30.org mailto:public-list at lists.alberg30.org
> >
> > >> wrote:
> > >>>>>>>
> > >>>>>>>>>>>
> > >>>>>>>>>>> All here are
> > >> some pics of Laughing Gull's rudder and comments. anyone have
> > >>>>>>>
> > >>>>>>>>>>> any knowledge of the rivetted
> > >> type fastenings?
> > >>>>>>
> > >>>>>>
> > >>>>>>>>>>>
> > >> https://alberg30maintenance.wordpress.com/2019/01/16/rudder-work/
> > >>>>>>>
> > >>>>>>>>>>>
> > >>>>>>>>>>> Jonathan
> > >>>>>>>
> > >>>>>>>>>>>
> > >>>>>>>>>>>
> > >>>>>>>>>>>
> > >>>>>>>>> Jonathan Adams
> > >>>>>
> > >>>>>>> 443-223-2534
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