[Public-List] cabin roof cross beam

[Taft Gerry]

 Hi everyone, 
Is it possible to use 1/4 plate instead of 3/8?  I am not keen on sandwiching 2 plates together on each side of the beam
The following is from the machine shop in Nanaimo BC...
I had a chance to chat with Len and unfortunately we will not be able to roll our 3/8” aluminum flat bar the “hard way” to produce your arches. The opening of the machine is only 2 ½” for this type of rolling and even if we were able to use 2 ½” material, the material will deform and not come out very nice. The only thing I might be able to suggest is we do have ¼” 6061 aluminum plate in stock. If your project permits, we could cut 2 of each arc from ¼” plate and you could sandwich them together. Food for thought.



    On Tuesday, August 3, 2021, 09:01:48 a.m. PDT, Jonathan Bresler <262alberg30 at gmail.com> wrote:  
 
 Information on the mast beam repair is available at http://www.alberg30.org/maintenance/HullDeck/MastBeam/
On Tue, Aug 3, 2021 at 10:43 AM Gordon Laco via Public-List <public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:

Hello Gerry,

Well the cure for the rudder is still the same… fill the holes in the rudder head fitting with welding or brazing, then carefully redrill so you end up with the correct orientation to have zero helm when the rudder is at zero degrees.

I’ll assume you do not have a warp in the rudder blade?  I think a twist in the shaft is not possible, the blade would shear off or that bolt up top would shear before the shaft twisted.

With regard to the mast beam plates, I think there is quite specific information on that on the Alberg 30 Association our American cousins keep at http://alberg30.org <http://alberg30.org/>

Cheers


Gordon Laco
426 Surprise





> On Aug 3, 2021, at 10:20 AM, Taft Gerry <gftaft at yahoo.ca> wrote:
> 
> Thank you.  There is no keyway in this rudder head.  I have a hole drilled right through the rudder shaft to align the rudder and to hold the rudder head to the post.  Is this something a previous owner has done? Perhaps they drilled it incorrectly? However thank you for your suggestion of re-machining.  
> 
> Can you point me in the direction where I can find more information of how the cross beam is easily fixed?
> 
> On Tuesday, August 3, 2021, 07:05:18 a.m. PDT, Gordon Laco <mainstay at csolve.net> wrote:
> 
> 
> Good morning, 
> 
> That’s an interesting list of issues…
> 
> I appears  there is a problem with the new rudder head fitting.  There will be a keyway slot machined in it… if you’ve got a seven degree offset in your steering, that means you need to have the keyway filled and remachined seven degrees in the appropriate direction.
> 
> With regard to your beam issue… it’s one that all boats before hull number 400 will need to have addressed at some time.   There is a relatively easy fix which involves aluminium plates to bolster the beam.   I reckon oak would work too, if one is committed to simple maintenance of the wooden structure.
> 
> Cheers - 
> 
> Gordon Laco
> Surprise 426
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>> On Aug 3, 2021, at 10:01 AM, Taft Gerry via Public-List <public-list at lists.alberg30.org <mailto:public-list at lists.alberg30.org>> wrote:
>> 
>> RudderOn the hard, the tiller, rudder and keel all appear to be in alignment.  However once underway, in order to go straight, my tiller needs to be offset by about 7 degrees to starboard.  The tiller head was remanufactured last year, and this year I replaced the gudgeon, pintle and rudder shoe. It has a thru-bolt to the rudder shaft and an alignment bolt - no key way.  
>> I am thinking my rudder stock is twisted however that does not explain why everything appears to be in alignment until the boat is underway.
>> Cabin roof cross beamMy 1965 has a wood beam and it is deforming. I have no interest in replacing the beam.  
>> I am thinking about using a 4x4 and a bottle jack to support the beam as required. 
>> 
>> Any comments or suggestions would be most appreciated
>> Gerry TaftKia Ora #103
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-- 
Jonathan M BreslerS/V Constance Alberg 30 #262Annapolis/Eastport MD