[Public-List] Toe Rail Update

Marcelo D. Gentinetta vanguard64 at cox.net
Thu Feb 4 06:16:07 PST 2021


Hi Greg,
Have you watched James Baldwin’s video on installing aluminum toerails on an Alberg 30 on his website CYS Atom?  If not, I would highly recommend it.
Best wishes,
Marcelo Gentinetta
#441 Alegría

> On Feb 4, 2021, at 6:16 AM, Gordon Laco via Public-List <public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:
> 
> Good morning Greg, 
> 
> Are you sure you don’t want to use wood?
> 
> I cannot imagine why anyone would put a bow chock three fee aft from the bow… normally the are inches aft on either side of the forestay… they’re useless if they are further aft.
> 
> Bedding the toe rail (whatever the material it is) is best done with something you can remove later.
> 
> Sealing the deck to hull joint is best done with something which cannot ever be removed… thickened epoxy with a reinforcing lamination of fibreglass cloth is a good way to do it.  
> 
> Reconfiguring the stern to let water run straight aft is not a practical way to let water off the deck… when the yacht is at rest the lowest point her her shear is about 1/3 of her length forward from the stern… that is were there must be a scupper(s). 
> 
> 
> Gordon Laco
> #426 Surprise
> www.gordonlaco.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
>> On Feb 4, 2021, at 1:27 AM, Greg Roberts via Public-List <public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:
>> 
>> Hi Folks,
>> First, let me say thanks to everyone that has offered advice, both
>> here and via private emails!
>> I'm going to give it a try here at the dock and do it in sections.
>> Worst case, the yard behind me has a cradle on a track for hauling
>> boats that are too heavy for the crane.
>> I've decided to go with slotted toe rail (2807-24) and T track (2817)
>> from Crest Aluminum. At the stern I'm going to reconfigure the wood so
>> there is a path for water to drain straight back. I'll come up with a
>> scupper at the aft end of the T track. There needs to be room to
>> add/remove cars anyway. I'm still working on the bow. A router with a
>> carbide bit 'machines' aluminum rather well. I expect that the final
>> design will include cutting the extrusion so that a foot or so of the
>> side runs up alongside the stem fitting.
>> So three questions at this point:
>> 1. What should I bed the extrusion with? I'm leaning towards butyl.2.
>> What should I seal the hull/deck joint with? I don't want to use 5200
>> as it's a PITA to remove and redo. I want something that works in a
>> caulking gun. I'm leaning towards Life Seal.3. How far back from the
>> bow should the fair leads be placed? I'm interested in what works best
>> on a mooring ball and with a bridle. Putting them close to the bow
>> simplifies the design but one I have is about 3ft back on the
>> starboard side. I'm guessing there might be a reason for it being back
>> that far. I have a bitt centered above the forward bulkhead.
>> Regards,
>> Greg
>> #43 Ayla
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