[Public-List] corroded rudder

Mike Lehman mlehman at gmail.com
Sat Mar 13 10:13:43 PST 2021 

Towney...no photo attached

Mike Lehman
~~~_/)_/)~~_/)~~~




On Sat, Mar 13, 2021, 1:13 PM Rolph Townshend via Public-List <
public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:

> See the photo below re the rudder repair
>
> On Sat, Mar 13, 2021 at 12:19 PM Gordon Laco via Public-List <
> public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:
>
> > yes, I’m learning a lot
> >
> > Gordon Laco
> > www.gordonlaco.com
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > > On Mar 13, 2021, at 10:57 AM, John Birch via Public-List <
> > public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:
> > >
> > > This is a very interesting discussion. Those photos, experiences, and
> > tables in the link are terrific.
> > >
> > > - JB
> > >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: Public-List [mailto:public-list-bounces at lists.alberg30.org] On
> > Behalf Of George Dinwiddie via Public-List
> > > Sent: March 12, 2021 11:07 PM
> > > To: public-list at lists.alberg30.org
> > > Cc: George Dinwiddie
> > > Subject: Re: [Public-List] corroded rudder
> > >
> > > There are probably some differences between a 1967 rudder and a 1972
> > > rudder. See
> > > http://www.alberg30.org/maintenance/Steering/RudderVarieties/ and
> > >
> >
> http://www.alberg30.org/maintenance/Steering/RudderVarieties/Checkmate220Rudder/
> > >
> > >  - George
> > >
> > > On 3/12/21 8:39 PM, David Scherrer via Public-List wrote:
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> I rebuilt my 1967 boats rudder just about a month ago. Not too
> > difficult but does involve a little bit of lifting and impact hammer
> work….
> > >>
> > >> You will not have to drop the rudder/shaft from the boat in order to
> > remove the rudder itself. This a very unique design that Alberg came up
> > with.
> > >> The shaft coming down from the tiller is solid bronze bent around the
> > top leading edge and only extends down about 2 ft of the rudder, attached
> > by a series of five counter sunk, large bronze threaded bolts.
> > >> Angle/turn the rudder as far as you can and brace to get to the bolts,
> > then use intact hammer to loosen the slotted bolts. Probably have to
> remove
> > a fair amount of paint and glass filler. You will have to replace the
> bolts
> > as they are slotted and its very hard to avoid damaging the heads.
> > >>
> > >> The pin joint half way down is just like a hinge on a door in many
> > ways. The pin was worn on mine so I replaced with a shortened carriage
> > bronze bolt (cut off the threads). Also ground down the squared section
> at
> > the top of carriage bolt below cap to make round, easy to do..
> > >> You will have to remove the unit in order to get to the pin, Do this
> > same time as removing the upper bolts from rudder..
> > >>
> > >> The bottom shoe does have a pin in the base that can be easily replace
> > once you lift the rudder off. I do recommend replacing the large bolt in
> > the bottom shoe that is screwed into the keel as well.
> > >>
> > >> Use epoxy with silicon micro ballons with all your replacement bolts
> > both for the five above and one in the shoe.This will greatly improve the
> > threads grip.
> > >> The nuts and bolts in the hinge were in fine shape on my boat so I
> used
> > them again.
> > >>
> > >> I do recommend investing in a impact hammer..it will make a world of
> > difference. Also a decent ratchet set.
> > >>
> > >> The rudder on my boat was a solid fiberglass material, kinda like
> > Bondo. The bronze bolts were simply threaded into this material..made me
> > little nervous, thus the adding of micro balloons.
> > >>
> > >> This is a fairly robust rudder system. It would take a lot for a
> > complete failure in my opinion. But some rudders were made from solid
> wood,
> > other a mix and others all glass and resin.
> > >>
> > >> I'm in the North West if thats helpful.
> > >>
> > >> Feel free to ask any questions…I would like to be helpful if I can.
> > >>
> > >> David S.
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>> On Mar 12, 2021, at 4:11 PM, Stephen Gwyn via Public-List <
> > public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:
> > >>>
> > >>> There's a lot of slop in the middle fitting.
> > >>>
> > >>> Underway, it's more of a clunk when I tack and the load shifts
> > >>> to the other side. When this happened 15 years ago, it was fixed by
> > >>> putting a bushing in the shoe.
> > >>>
> > >>> The yard is also not convinced there isn't more corrosion a long the
> > shaft.
> > >>> They reluctantly recommending rebuilding the rudder.
> > >>> Reluctantly, because they're extremely busy right now and don't need
> > extra work.
> > >>>
> > >>> While a lot of the sailing I do is in light wind, I do seem to end up
> > >>> pounding through 4 foot waves a few times a year. I've never fussed
> > >>> about the boat breaking. Knowing I've lost that much metal a
> > >>> key spot will not make me calm.
> > >>>
> > >>> SG
> > >>> _______________________________________________
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> > >>
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> > >>
> > >
> > > --
> > >  ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> > >   When I remember bygone days                         George Dinwiddie
> > >   I think how evening follows morn;            gdinwiddie at alberg30.org
> > >   So many I loved were not yet dead,           http://www.Alberg30.org
> > >   So many I love were not yet born.                          also see:
> > >                'The Middle' by Ogden Nash     http://idiacomputing.com
> > >  ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> > >
> > >
> > >
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