[alberg30] cutter rigged

[Guy Lalonde]

Dick.

I second the recommendation for Cetol M. It doesn`t peel away like varnish
and if neglected the finish will slowly fade away and even then you only
need to put on another coat or two.

Guy
#466

----- Original Message -----
From: "John Birch" <sunstone at idirect.com>
To: <alberg30 at egroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, August 20, 2000 8:44 AM
Subject: Re: [alberg30] cutter rigged


> Dick;
>
> Unless the diamond pad is directly tied in to the Fwd bulkhead with heavy
> duty angle bracket and bolts or attached to the stem with a glass knee and
> tie rod you risk pulling up your deck. Sure it can be used on a light day
> with a stays'l and Chute as is but one day the air will slowly increase
and
> you'll come off a wave and the peak load will exceed .... crack and you're
> in the soup.
>
> Unsupported deck fittings - the working jib track is a classic, over time,
> wreck the deck. Kurt didn't always get it right - it is even worse on the
> A-37s.
>
> Wood work - I strongly recommend Cetol M by Sikkens, although easily
abraded
> it is easily touched up with a Q tip and Cetol in a small bottle. About
> three Coats will do with an annual recoating. Ignore the instructions
about
> sanding to key the Cetol for the next coat - a good washing with the deck
> brush rubbed over it will key it enough to coat from year to year. Cetol
> does darken with time but it covers the imperfections in abused wood and
> almost never fails the way varnish does. It is neither a Teak oil nor a
> Varnish but something in between. Had it on Sunstone since '91, we have
> extreme temperature shifts in Winter which I believe is the cause of most
> varnish to wood failures due to the different expansion contraction
> characteristics of wood and varnish.
>
> Use a two part Teak cleaner, but scrub across the grain not with it to
> reduce the loss of soft wood fibres. Use plenty of water to avoid the
bleach
> from staining the hull.
>
> Removing the toe rail to Aluminium, seen it done a number of times and the
> result is the same - yuck, it looks like a C&C wanna be. You're right to
> think twice about that option.
>
> Hope this has been a help.
>
> Cheers,
>
> John
>
> Dick Filinich wrote:
>
> > Hey All:On my boat there is a diamond pad eye about three feet aft of
> > the head stay.Is it possible to use a halyard or topping lift(spinnaker
> > pole)attached to this pad eye on deck as a stay and hoist a second sail
> > with the spinnaker halyard or topping lift to rig as cutter.Has any one
> > ever fooled around and tried something like this.What would be a good
> > combination of head sails to not over load boat.There is a 32'Bayfield
> > next to me and he is rigged cutter and only has one back stay,so I don't
> > think that would be a problem.One other thing,my wood work is looking
> > really bad I'm gonna have to take it all down and sand again or strip
> > off the old varnish.I need a solution a stain or wood preservative,not
> > varnish or any other coating that will peel after a few months.I had
> > thoughts of pulling off all exterior wood except the toe rail,and
> > replace with aluminun hatches,hand rails,aft hatch etc.But to remove all
> > the wood, would take that classic look away.This will be a project when
> > the temperature comes down some,just too hot down here lately to want to
> > do anything but stay in air conditioning, new bimini top has made a
> > world of difference.
> > Dick #191
> >
> >
>
>
> 
>
>
>


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