[alberg30] Chlorination of Ship's Fresh Water-things not to do

[JANET LEMBO]

alberg30 wrote:
> 
> I just opened my fresh water tank for inspection last weekend, and Holy
> Cow, I had science experiment going on down there that made Aliens look
> like a picnic.
> 
> While I am a nine-fingered self-proclaimed genius, I realized that for
> the last two years, while in dry dock, I had left the water tank
> partially full. What a rocket scientist!! To say there was mold and
> other things growing inside the tank, would be an extreme
> understatement.
> 
> After draining the tank several times, giving it a scrubbing--as much as
> was accessible- and then treating with Clorox beach, I am wondering what
> else I should be doing to try and fix this mess. I have circulated the
> new bleach water through the system, and will be installing a carbon
> filter soon enough. Any rule on how long to keep the bleach or chlorine
> in the tank? Do I get a test kit and just keep testing-and purging with
> chemicals? With the addition of chemicals in the water system, can I
> reverse the effects of this mold-growing crisis?
> 
> Thanks for your help;
> 
> Joe #499
> "One Less Traveled"
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Marianne King-Wilson <addvalue at zeuter.com>
> To: <alberg30 at egroups.com>
> Sent: Friday, May 26, 2000 8:43 AM
> Subject: Re: [alberg30] Chlorination of Ship's Fresh Water
> 
> > My husband, who has a Ph.D. in organic chemistry and works in
> scientific
> > affairs related to food safety, says, in true scientific fashion, "it
> > depends".
> > Some of the variables would be the condition of the water put into the
> tank,
> > the condition of the tank, and the piping to the tap.
> > The easy part is how you can tell if the water is safe.  It must have
> > residual chlorine at the tap.  In other words, the chlorine won.
> > There is a simple test, and I will try to get the name of the
> apparatus,
> > which determines in a few moments, the PPM of residual chlorine.
> > If you have 5 PPM of chlorine at the tap, the water is safe from all
> > bacteria.
> > To tailor this to your boat, keep adding chlorine, agitating it,
> (tacking?)
> > and then testing until you have a residual.
> > I'll do some research about the apparatus and get back to you.
> >
> > Marianne King-Wilson
> > Windward #369
> >
> >
> >
> > Jack Vanderloo wrote:
> >
> > >  what is the conventional wisdom
> > > regarding the chlorination of ship's water supplies?  How many cups
> per
> > > how many gallons?
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> --
> > Failed tests, classes skipped, forgotten locker combinations.
> > Remember the good 'ol days
> > http://click.egroups.com/1/4053/8/_/476031/_/959348682/
> > ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> --
> >
> >
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> To email plain text is conventional, to add graphics is devine.
> We'll show you how at www.supersig.com.
> http://click.egroups.com/1/6811/10/_/476031/_/963280495/
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
Joe, The best thing to do is pull the cover clean everything wipe with
bleach and put back together. If you do not want to do this fill it up
with fresh water. test th ppm of chlorine residual in the water you are
using and bring the cl2 up to 3ppm.. use a test kit. Let it sit for a
few days, drain the tank and do it again. then refill the tank and bring
the cl2 up to 2ppm.. cl2 at 3ppm is evident by odor  as you go down it
is not harmful. Do not use a carbon filter as this will eliminate the
cl2 that you want in the system .. use a wound filter to filter silt and
debris that has been killed by the cl2.. cl2 good algi bad... Joel


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