[Alberg30] rigging

John Birch Sunstone at idirect.com
Tue Nov 28 06:36:22 PST 2000


Having refitted Sunstone with 316 Dyform wire with all Norseman's for end
fittings I can say the following.

Dyform, because of it's shape more than makes up for the 30% loss of strength
for a given diameter - it is actually about 10% stronger than 302 for a given
diameter. However it is harder on sail stitching than regular 1 x 19 so good
clean tacks are a remedy. It doesn't destroy sails, its not that hard on them,
but the wear is greater on the stitching but an annual  maintenece trip to the
sail maker whick I do anyway is prudent. Wouldn't use it with Mylar though -
that would be tempting fate. I think if I were going to do it again I would opt
for regular 316 and go up the next size - I really don't believe the top hamper
to be that significant from the larger diameter. I would definitely use Dyform
on the headstay as it more or less guarantees the mast won't come back on you if
a shroud does part. More specifically it is better able to handle the shock
loads which the headstay is particularly exposed to.

Norseman terminals again, absolutely (Stalock are the same principle and just as
good). They can be reused except the cones and the cones are cheap. You will be
able to use them again with another set of wire should you keep your boat that
long, or if you need to shorten the wire for any reason. They are vastly
superior to swage - stronger than the wire and are idiot proof unlike swaging
which is at the mercy of operator skill and equipment condition.

My 2 cents anyway.

Cheers,

John



Charles Haggart wrote:

>   +--------------------------------------------+
>   | Visit the incipient Alberg 30 Online Store |
>   |      http://www.alberg30.org/store/        |
>   +--------------------------------------------+
> You can replace your own rigging. Take accurate measurements and you'll be
> fine, any rigging shop can swag your fitting on for you and you'll save on
> the labour costs by doing it yourself. Personally I think this type of
> maintenance should be undertaken by the boat owner, you'll completely
> understand your rigging after a refit like that and that's important. I sail
> in fresh water and use 302 stainless. 302 develops rust marks in salt water
> (which apparently does not affect the performance of the rigging). If you go
> to 316 Stainless you'll have to move up a size because 316 is about 30%
> weaker than 302 of the same size.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: public-list-admin at alberg30.org
> [mailto:public-list-admin at alberg30.org]On Behalf Of ICARUS21E at aol.com
> Sent: Monday, November 27, 2000 7:05 PM
> To: public-list at alberg30.org
> Subject: [Alberg30] rigging
>
>   +--------------------------------------------+
>   | Visit the incipient Alberg 30 Online Store |
>   |      http://www.alberg30.org/store/        |
>   +--------------------------------------------+
> I'd be interested in the cost of replacing standing rigging. Cost by do it
> yourselfers and cost by a rigger/boat yard.
>
> Also- stainless is the norm, does anyone use aluminum? pros/cons?
>
> Thanks-
> Fred Fraim
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