[Alberg30] Rudder Shoe

schuylki at vanent.vanebros.com schuylki at vanent.vanebros.com
Tue Dec 18 05:08:28 PST 2001

Hi Ralph

That rudder shoe is not something you want to risk losing. I think people
have used a variety of ways to keep it attached to the boat. I had access
to copper sleeves that I used as sort of drywall anchors slid into the
keel, then silicon bronze screws through the original holes on the shoe. I
also used thickened up epoxy to bond the shoe to the keel. Finally, I ran a
big bronze lag bolt , more or less vertically, through the bottom of the
shoe up into the keel-judging by what the drill bit produced, there is wood
in there.

Are you sure that by using a stainless bushing, a dissimilar metal problem
was not created? Perhaps that is what destroyed your screws/thread. Years
ago, when my gudgeon hole had egged, I intended to use a torlon insert
(Harken ads say that's what they use for rudder bearings). The minimum
quantities required for purchase.....Anyway, i packed the hole with PC7 ( I
think I did enlarge the hole some) and drilled that, when hardened, to
match the pintle at the bottom of the rudder. I t has proven to be
extremely rugged. I'll go so far to say it's a permanent cure for the
problem. I do secure the tiller handle when docked to minimize rudder
movement from wave action, etc.

The rudder pintle is a bronze machine thread bolt with the head cut off. It
screws into a 1" bronze shaft stock, whick is itself attached to the rudder
by two bolts running lenghtwise through the rudder. Fairly easy to work,
and to replace parts as needed.

I think electrolysis is the thing that needs to be guarded against most. I
try very hard to keep everything exposed to salt water on the hull of the
same metal (silicone bronze is the ideal-it can be hard to find).

Keep an eye on the gudgeon/pintle assembly halfway up the rudder, too. That
could be a headach to replace , if one side or the other comes up missing.

Checkmate #220

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