[Alberg30] Hull two part paint

R.C. Alley ralley at chesapeake.net
Sun Mar 31 07:42:19 PST 2002


Scott:
You will get lots of different opinions
Most will be related to differing opinions of what "better" is.

I painted the topsides of 219 a couple years back, and the deck last year.
Here's what I learned.

I decided not to use the 2 part isocyianiate based paint, precisely because
it requires, IMHO, experience I did not have and eqipment which I did not
know how to use well enough to get what I thought was an acceptable
result--my definition of acceptable may be different than yours. I did not
have the $ to hire the work done at the time.  I did not consider
brushing-rolling the 2 part.

The benefits of the 2 part are that it is a harder and more long lasting
surface.  The disadvantages are that it is more difficult to apply, harder
to repair if damaged, and very unforgiving of imperfections in preparation,
in weather conditions at time of application, etc.

One part poly paints are a little more forgiving, but will not last as
long--say, an 8 year replacement cycle instead of 10, 12, or 15.  1 parts
are easier to repair (foam brush for small stuff) and won't kill you if you
mishandle them.

The most inportant thing--regardless of which paint you use--is that you
read and follow ALL manufacturers instructions.  (NOT JUST THE ONES YOU
LIKE)  Any imperfection in the substrate being painted will show in the
finish--so figure 96% of your painting work will be done with fillers and
sanders.  I spent 5 days fairing and sanding my hull before
painting--including setup times for fillers.  Undercoats are important, and
must be sanded properly.  Cover the boat to protect the hull from solar
heating, which can make one side or part of the hull a very different
temperature than the other parts--and effect how the paint flows and dries.
Remember that the temperature of the boat surface being painted needs to be
the same as the ambient atmosphere--this will also affect how the paint
flows and dries. Dust and pollen are your enemies, even if you can't see
them.

Lastly, Get Help. You will need a second set of hands to tip off with roll
and brush, and a third to wipe down ahead of you, and , more importantly,
extra sets of eyes.  You are more likely to get a 3 foot paint job (one that
looks good from 3 feet) than a 10 foot job if you have help with mixing and
application.  The paint sets up very, very fast, and gives no time to back
up and admire your work.

I used both Brightside and Interlux.

Good Luck,

Rob
----- Original Message -----
From: "Scott Wallace" <tristan at one.net>
To: <public-list at alberg30.org>
Sent: Saturday, March 30, 2002 9:28 PM
Subject: Re: [Alberg30] Hull two part paint


> Hi Alberg Friends,
>
> What is your experience with rolling/tipping or brushing on a two part
epoxy
> paint on the topsides (hull) of your boat?  Don Casey says in a book that
> rolling/tipping may look superior to spray.  He also cautions that
spraying the
> 2 part epoxy can kill unless you wear a air supply line and helmet.  What
about
> hazards brushing and tipping?  Is spraying much better?  I am getting
ready to
> paint the topsides of my 1968 Bluenose from a swimming pool greeen/blue
(factory
> colour) to a deep Navy blue almost black.  I still need to paint the deck,
cuddy
> cabin house and cockpit.  Any tips on what paint to use for this part of
the
> boat?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Scott Wallace
>
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