[Alberg30] Thru-hulls

[sousa, stephen (ENG)]

Alan,

I would change all of the thru hull fittings. This will give you the
opportunity to check the wooden backer plates that Whitby installed and
remove the two piece units that Whitby installed at the factory. I used 3M
5200 when replacing the units and everything was fine. If you are new to
this boat, I would also check the hose connecting the stuffing box to the
stern tube. Any other questions or concerns please ask many on this list
have done this job. 

Stephen
#114
      



-----Original Message-----
From: public-list-bounces at alberg30.org
[mailto:public-list-bounces at alberg30.org] On Behalf Of Alan Slater
Sent: Saturday, December 27, 2003 12:32 PM
To: Alberg 30 public list
Subject: [Alberg30] Thru-hulls


I am considering replacing all the thru-hull seacocks (gate valves only).
After removing the original gate valves I am really confused now as to what
to replace them with. The original gate valves, which have I a tapered pipe
thread each side, were screwed onto the thru-hull stem, which should have a
straight standard thread. So, do I have to replace the gate valves with a
"flanged bronze seacock", which is threaded onto the thru-hull stem
(standard thread) and seated against the plywood backing, or can I just
screw an inline "bronze ball valve" ("Apollo" model 2607117 c/w 85-5-5-5
chromium plated bronze ball, as listed in West Marine's catalog ) and screw
it directly to the thru-hull stem, as it also has pipe threads each end just
like the original gate valve. I know that "if the shoe fits -I could wear
it", but am I overlooking something that may cause me grief in the future,
especially when the boat is back in the water.

Thanks for any comments,

Alan Slater
"Romp" #358
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