[Public-list] Interior Paint

Gordon Laco mainstay at csolve.net
Mon Jan 10 11:32:40 PST 2005


Thanks Roger - I'll look forward to that.

We fight condensation aboard #426 by keeping the forehatch perpetually
cracked open and of course in the spring and fall the woodstove is terrific
as dry heat.

We are going back into the water in only three and a half months... Can't
wait!  There is no ship wintering in our harbour this year so that means
with no artificial break-up the ice will go out later - but we usually deal
with that by dropping the boats in from a slightly elevated height to make
sure they get through.  By tradition the formula is 4" of drop per inch of
ice, up to 6" of ice at which point you double the drop distance.  There is
a correction for tonnage that we don't usually bother to take into
consideration.

Gord





> Gord,
> 
> Nice to hear from you and happy new year.  If you check their web site, the
> first (real expensive) stuff is used extensively on steel ships as a
> replacement for conventional insulation.  I think it is so expensive (and
> perhaps more effective as insulation) because it is "elastomeric" and pretty
> thick (20 mils per coat).  I was scared away by cost and specialized spray
> equipment required.
> 
> I have some (characteristically Roger) special ideas regarding ventilation
> and hope to post some sketches on my little A30 web site for feedback soon.
> 
> Roger
> 
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Gordon Laco" <mainstay at csolve.net>
> To: "Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all" <public-list at alberg30.org>
> Sent: Monday, January 10, 2005 12:20 PM
> Subject: Re: [Public-list] Interior Paint
> 
> 
>> Hi Roger and the rest of you guys...
>> 
>> I used a ceramic insulating paint during my days running a sailing ship
>> operation that sailed a pair of 50 ton steel hulled brigantines.  We
> needed
>> something that would offer some degree of inhibition to the creation of
>> condensation, which is the killer of steel hulls.
>> 
>> I forget what the stuff cost us but we used it everywhere we could not
>> properly insulate the hull and deck heads.  I think it made a diff. But
> even
>> the manufacturer confessed that the R value of even properly applied
>> material was small and the best defence against condensation was
>> ventilation.
>> 
>> Cheers - Gord #426 Surprise
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>> I wrote earlier about an insulating interior paint that was $250 a
> gallon.  I
>>> did some research on a less costly solution and found these guys
>>> http://www.hytechsales.com/heat_transfer.html who make a ceramic
> additive that
>>> works with any paint.  Just add 1 quart of their magic dust per gallon
> of
>>> paint.  A quart costs $13, they recommend two coats minimum.  It can be
> spray
>>> painted (remove the filters); you can add thinner to make up for the
>>> thickening caused by adding the ceramic powder.  They also claim, the
> additive
>>> makes the finish harder and easier to clean and helps with acoustic
>>> absorption.  They did not say, however, that it clears up dandruff.
>>> 
>>> If anyone is interested, their site explains the technology. It is a
> NANA 2003
>>> Spin Off Technology Product.  For $26 more, I think I will give it a try
> now
>>> that I am finally ready to paint the interior of #148; of course, I
> thought I
>>> was ready three months ago.  I sure hope that long term masking tape
> works.
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