[Public-list] Toe Rail Replacement &Hull/deck Joint

[Jim & Carole]

George,
 Thanks for your reply. It looks like you did a professional looking job 
on your taffrail. I hope I am half as successful. When looking at the 
pictures I thought I saw a step or uneven surface that the teak rests 
on. Is that correct? If that is the case have to "rabbit" ( I think 
thats the term) the taffrail.

A far as categorizing the emails, I made folders in my email account  
for various topics and then selected the most informative  letters to 
add to the folder. I had begun to copy them to my documents as text 
files but hadn't gotten to far along as I am a computer neophyte.

Jim


George Dinwiddie wrote:

> Jim & Carole wrote:
>
>> Furthermore the Deck / Hull joint has leaked for some time.  Can 
>> someone please advise as to the best or easeist way to remove the 
>> toe  rail. I  thought of drilling out the plugs and exposing the 
>> bolts but someone once wrote about grinding off the bolts by grinding 
>> thru the rail and then , I assume , driving the bolts thru the deck 
>> with a punch. Could someone please elborate?
>
>
> There's no reason why you can't break the existing toerail at the 
> bolts and cut the heads off.  You can still salvage the teak between 
> the bolts for creating wooden plugs and for other small repairs.
>
>> Has anyone had experience replacing the taffrail?
>
>
> Take a look at 
> http://alberg30.org/maintenance/disorganized/TaffrailReplacement/ and 
> you'll find some photos I took when I replaced the taffrail.
>
> Sorry I've never found the time to organize them into a web page.  If 
> you wouldn't mind writing up a text description of the process, I'd be 
> glad to turn it into a web page.  You can just put the filenames of 
> photos (mine or yours or a combination, your choice) in parenthesis 
> where you'd like them to appear.
>
>> I would also appreciate any advise on repairing the deck/hull seam. 
>> From what I recall from past emails it involves drilling out the alum 
>> rivets and replacing with #10 bolts. I was thinking of using 5200 on 
>> seam. I wonder if I will be able to separate the seam to remove the 
>> existing adhesive.  How much seam I should open at a time?
>
>
> The hull deck joint, at least on the newer boats, was sealed by laying 
> a strip of wet glass mat between them, providing a weak but waterproof 
> fiberglass joint.  I chose to clean out any suspicious looking places 
> with a screwdriver (as a chisel) from the outside and forcing 5200 
> into the seam.  I also bedded the #10 flathead screws with 5200.  I 
> used loctite green on the nuts, because I didn't think of it until 
> after they were installed.  If I were to do it over, I'd use nylock 
> nuts, instead.
>
> I bedded the teak, itself, with 4200.
>
>> Finally, at one time I was able to access an archive of all emails 
>> from the past. I don't recall how I did it or if its still 
>> available.  May be this a question for George.
>
>
> There are message archives 
> (http://www.alberg30.org/pipermail/public-list/) going back to April 
> 2004.  The easiest way to find something is probably by using the 
> site-wide search box found on most pages of the website.  That merely 
> uses Google to search the site, but includes the email archives.  But 
> always look at http://alberg30.org/maintenance/disorganized/ for 
> photos, too, as Google can't easily index those.
>
>  - George
>



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