[Public-List] Diesel Help

Stephen Sousa alberg114 at hotmail.com
Mon Apr 11 16:38:20 PDT 2011


The low compression could also be attributed to a stuck ring. I woudl suggest removing the air cleaner and put Mystery Oil into the air cleaner with an oil can and spin it by hand. Let this oil sit in the motor for a week or so. If you have carbon build up on the rings this will loosen things up for you. I also do this during winter lay up with now a Westerbeke, I previously had a 2GM20F which is a great motor which doesn't have glow plugs she is direct injection. WalMart and others carry Mystery Oil.
 
    
 
> Date: Mon, 11 Apr 2011 10:19:51 -0700
> From: laughing_gull at verizon.net
> To: public-list at alberg30.org; member-list at lists.alberg30.org
> Subject: [Public-List] Diesel Help
> 
> Well I finally have a question that I really need an answer to - versus one 
> where I am looking for an opinion!
> 
> I have a Yanmar 2GMF. It is between 20 and 25 years old, and for the last couple 
> of years has been having a hard time starting - I might have to crank the engine 
> for a number of extended periods - minutes. This spring, I had Bayshore Marine 
> look at the engine, and they checked injectors and performed a compression test. 
> The injectors are fine, and the engine once started runs well. If it is warm, it 
> starts immediately no problem. Once running, it can hit its top revs (~4k+) 
> under no load - which indicates that the fuel pump / timing is good.
> 
> The result of this visit - other than lightening my wallet - was that the lack 
> of compression was creating the problem. It is meant to be 469lbs and is 400 in 
> #1 and 415 in #2. The only way to deal with this is to check either the head or 
> the piston rings. Either way it is an expensive proposition. can I get it to 
> last the season? It is only a matter of time before I burn out the starter motor 
> and / or drain my batteries.
> 
> The mechanic recommended:
> 
> 1. release the compression on the cylinders, and crank the engine to warm things 
> up, and then start
> 
> 2. While doing this close the water intake valve, as the muffler has no exhaust 
> to speak of when you are cranking and will fill up with water which could back 
> into the engine.
> 
> 3. He recommended putting CRC into the air intake to help seal the pistons. He 
> did not recommend starting fluids as these damaged seals. Someone else has 
> recommended putting in heavier oil.
> 
> Any advice from the crowd? If I send the engine to Bayshore, I essentially get a 
> new engine, as they will warrenty it, and totally overhaul it while it is out. 
> However, this is sure to seriously impact the boat fund. Any recommendations for 
> a good mechanic that is not a crack head? The reason I went back to Bayshore was 
> I kept running into crack head mechanics.
> 
> Jonathan
> 197
> _______________________________________________
> These businesses support your Association:
> http://www.alberg30.org/store/A30supporters.html
> Please support them.
> _______________________________________________
> Public-List mailing list
> Public-List at lists.alberg30.org
> http://lists.alberg30.org/listinfo.cgi/public-list-alberg30.org
 		 	   		  
 1302565100.0


More information about the Public-List mailing list