[Public-List] cockpit floor job
mainstay at csolve.net
Sun Jan 23 15:03:48 PST 2011
My c pit floor was flat so I didn't have to change anything. With regard to the inspection port, our #426 has factory installed wheel steering so the pedestal is there. My soft core was moving forward from the rudder post and thank goodness didn't get to the steering.
Sent from my iPhone
On 2011-01-23, at 3:23 PM, Mel Martin <mel.martin at utoronto.ca> wrote:
> Thanks for your description of recoring the cockpit floor. I have the same job to do on mine (as soon as the weather gets a good deal warmer) and your description pretty much matches what I plan to do (and reassures me that I am not completely insane for attempting it!)
> One question though: Did you brace the underside of the cockpit before making the repair? The reason I ask is that the underside of my cockpit has a noticeable sag to it. The cockpit itself has a depression where water pools rather than running down the drains.
> I also plan to get rid of the inspection port at the forward end of the cockpit (the ultimate source of the damage to the floor) and replace it with a watertight hatch which will allow access to the stuffing box.
> Any suggestions or things to look out for?
> hull # 452
>> Message: 1
>> Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2011 14:25:16 -0500
>> From: Gordon Laco <mainstay at csolve.net>
>> To: <fongemie at gmail.com>, Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all
>> <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
>> Subject: Re: [Public-List] foredeck compression, (and bedding deck
>> Message-ID: <C95DF64C.A8E1%mainstay at csolve.net>
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
>> OK -
>> I'm in the US warehouse now and in front of a computer.
>> The cockpit floor job was completed last spring after years of being put
>> off. It was easy.
>> I cut the top of the cockpit sole off using a large dremmel-like tool, being
>> careful to only go through the top laminates and not past the balsa.
>> With not too much trouble I was able to rip the intact top layer off...
>> Where the balsa was reduced to mush it came off easily, not so easily
>> With a wide chisel and a scraper I removed all the balsa and mush, and
>> excavated an inch or so under the undisturbed top layer. I then sanded and
>> vacuumed both the removed top layer and the upper surface of the bottom
>> layer of glass.
>> That was the work of Saturday morning.
>> Saturday afternoon I 'painted' the excavated under edge areas with raw epoxy
>> then with a spatula forced in a paste of thickened epoxy - it was about like
>> peanut butter. Then I painted the whole exposed top surface of the bottom
>> glass layer ... In the mean time I had prepared a piece of marine plywood
>> cut to fit the removed balsa, complete with 1" diameter holes in a close
>> spacing. I smeared the bottom of the plywood with the thickened epoxy
>> then pressed it into the sole cut-out. I poured epoxy into the holes and
>> around the edges until no more would go in... Then I went away and had
>> While eating supper it occurred to me that the plywood might float up on the
>> epoxy so I dropped my fork and rushed back to the boat with waxed paper and
>> a few bricks. I put the bricks on the waxed paper so they wouldn't stick
>> to the plywood. (it hadn't floated...)
>> Sunday morning I sanded the top surface of the plywood, vacuumed it then
>> painted it with raw epoxy. I prepared the old top laminate of the sole with
>> thickened epoxy on its undersurface, then pressed it in and piled the bricks
>> on them. I then kept pouring raw epoxy in around the cut edge seam until no
>> more would go in... Then covered that with masking tape to prevent epoxy
>> from flowing out.
>> Monday after work I went back, sanded the tape off, masked out and painted
>> off-white over the glue as a sort of finish... Put the tiller head and its
>> fairing back on... Presto.
>> Gord #426
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