[Public-List] Adding weight to the keel and other things

Roger L. Kingsland r.kingsland at ksba.com
Mon May 2 07:53:57 PDT 2011


Len,

I just drilled a hole through the centerline just aft of the seat between
the forward V berth for my transducer.  I discovered, on good old 148, the
forward edge of the keel is about 6" aft of the seat bulkhead and just a few
inches under the V berth sole.  Between keel and hull is what looks like
grey sand (perhaps a mixture of sand and cement) that is easily chipped
away.  I understand from other Albergers that the cast iron keel is
encapsulated in this stuff so you will have to go thru it when fastening new
lead.  Since the weight of the keel is partially held in place by the bottom
of the fiberglass, I would be concerned about removing any glass. 

Given Gord's comment about squatting and the keel running so far forward, I
wonder if it might be necessary to add weight forward of the bottom of the
keel to achieve "balance" (a navel architect should be able to figure that
out).  I have also noticed that the leading (diagonal) edge of the hull, up
to about 3 feet forward of the bottom, is flat and have thought rounding
that section would reduce drag.

If the weight needs to be forward of the flat part of the keel, you could
add a curved "tongue" that would attach to both the flat and diagonal parts
of the keel fastening it vertically through the fiberglass to the existing
cast iron.  Of course you would have to insure a good connection of the new
keel bolts to the bottom of the cast iron and it would add a few inches of
draft.

The other issue is how you get access to the bottom of the keel.  I kept my
boat in a factory with 20 ton overhead cranes for a few years and thought
about lowering the boat on its side with the keel and curve of the hull on
the factory floor.  I actually bought a 4' x 8' "dunnage bag" to place under
the curve of the hull.  Dunnage bags are inflatable and placed between cargo
to stabilize it.  Turns out their load capacity is quite high.  I thought,
by putting good old 148 on her side it would be easier to finish the hull.
Unfortunately, I got evicted before I could try it.  The bag is yours if you
want it.          






Roger Kingsland, Managing Partner

Kingsland Scott Bauer Associates

 

   KSBA 

________________________________

Architects/Planners/InteriorDesigners/ProjectManagers

 

3441 Butler Street

Pittsburgh, PA 15201

N 40° 27.8344'  W79° 57.9831'

 

412-252-1500 ext.101 

412-779-5101 cell 

412-252-1510 fax

r.kingsland at ksba.com

www.ksba.com

 

 

-----Original Message-----
From: public-list-bounces at lists.alberg30.org
[mailto:public-list-bounces at lists.alberg30.org] On Behalf Of Len Payne
Sent: Monday, May 02, 2011 9:51 AM
To: public-list at lists.alberg30.org
Subject: [Public-List] Adding weight to the keel and other things

Good Morning, All,
I have been considering how to add weight to an under-weight keel.
One of the things I have been thinking about is stripping the glass from the
keel in an area just above (3 or 4 inches) the bottom of the keel and nearly
the full length of the keel in that area. Then, by drilling and tapping 2
1/2" holes into the keel, through lead plates, to hold the plates to the
keel on both sides. The plates would be 24" x 6" x 1", three on each side -
laid lengthwise - end to end, would total about 1/2 cuft of lead (about
350#, 1 cuft = 708#). Each plate would weigh just under 60#, so would be a
manageable weight. The plates would be faired according to it's position on
the keel and would be bolted to the side of the keel, epoxied in place, and
glassed in to become an integral part of the keel. This would add nothing to
the draft and would only a 2" to the width of the keel. The additional
300-350# would be no more than that of a large passenger, or a big skipper
and beer, so it should not affect the way the boat rides in relation to the
waterline. Furt
 her, being 3-1/2' below the waterline, spread out along the keel length,
fairly 'centered' relative to the center of gravity, the trim should not be
significantly affected - certainly no more than a 40gal water tank under the
V-berth (330# plus, above the waterline, very far forward). The additional
"Righting Moment" of 300-350#, 3-1/2 feet below the waterline would,
certainly, not be negligible.
If one were about to strip the hull because of the need for a barrier-coat,
how much additional work would it be to remove the glass down to bare iron
(if the keel is cast) or attaching the plates to the outer skin of the keel
and through-bolting to the opposite plate, then glassing the whole thing in
place.
Yes, I really want you comments, else I would not be soliciting same. Are
there things that I have not considered? Other possible effects from doing
this? Does anyone know "exactly" how the keels are constructed? Are they
junk iron cast in epoxy, are they glassed, cast iron? Has anyone seen a keel
that has come apart?
Yes, I welcome any and all comments and/or suggestions.
Thanks to all in advance.
Len
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