[Public-List] What size fitting for new teak cap rail

Wed May 23 05:53:51 PDT 2012

I was very unhappy and have never raced in any of their sponsored race 
since. As it turned out both boats had the same insurance company, so it was 
like no-fault insurance. But had they been different companies it would have 
been ugly since the race committee would not determine which boat was at 
fault. The damages exceeded $4k which included a Awlgrip paint job...so that 
tells you how long ago it was. The asshole insurance adjuster would not 
accept my 3 quotes from reputable yards in Annapolis, so he inspected the 
boat himself on a snowy February day. He was wearing wing tips and a 3-piece 
suit. He was scared to death to walk down the pier and get on the boat. I 
asked him how many boats he had been on and his reply was...none. He told me 
that the company would only pay for painting the damaged side of the boat, 
not the whole boat. I told him that I would protest his report...until I 
discovered that his was the highest estimate of all the rest. I used the 
extra money to buy a couple of winches I wanted.

-----Original Message----- 
From: Gordon Laco
Sent: Wednesday, May 23, 2012 8:29 AM
To: Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all
Subject: Re: [Public-List] What size fitting for new teak cap rail

Hmmm

Sounds like the committee needs a lesson.  The collision in itself is as
clear a declaration of a foul as any red flag.   And equally clearly, your
duty as skipper to make sure you weren't sinking comes before the
technicality of raising a flag (which you did do as soon as you could).

I'd have been unhappy with that committee....

Gord #426 Surprise

On 23/05/12 8:20 AM, "Mike Lehman" <sail_505 at hotmail.com> wrote:

> Glen,
>
> I pretty sure that I used #10 screws when I did this job many years ago. 
> The
> wood was specifically chosen for its tight even grain. Even then, I broke 
> a
> piece trying to bend it. The most severe bend is from the shrouds forward. 
> I
> used 5200 to bed the rail. I also drilled out the pop rivets, opened the
> deck hull seam slightly and filled the seam with 5200. No leaks ever! What
> prompted all this work for me was a collision with another Alberg in a 
> race
> in high wind when he lost control of his boat (spinnaker up in 35 knots) 
> and
> t-boned me on the port side about 4 feet back from the bow. The collision
> opened the deck/hill seam from the point of collision all the way back to
> the jib track and the deck was lifted about 3". You could go below, climb
> over all of the cabinetry that was laying on the cabin sole and look out
> through the deck/hill seam.  We finished the race, but on a starboard tack
> the water would pour in so we would flip over to a port tack to pump the
> bilge. BTW, we were protested from the race because the race committee 
> said
> that my #1 priority was to display the red protest flag...since it took
> about 10 minutes to determine if the still seaworthy, I didn't get the 
> flag
> up in time and was disqualified.
>
> These are strong boats!
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Glennb
> Sent: Wednesday, May 23, 2012 12:13 AM
> To: Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all
> Subject: [Public-List] What size fitting for new teak cap rail
>
> hello all,
>
> I am wondering what size screws to use to fasten a new teak cap rail onto
> the bulwarks I replaced my old toe rail with?
>
> the new bulwarks are 3 3/4" high, 11/8" thick, and I have milled some 12'
> teak boards into 5/8 x 2" cap rails.  the problem is teak is not very 
> bendy
> so doesn't accept the curvy lines of the Alberg 30 very well, particularly
> amidships, it twists and jumps  up and turns over pretty easily because of
> stress in the wood fibers,  and fractures and breaks if bent to much,,, so
> lots of stress along the grain of the wood.
>
> I  steam bent the milled pieces to mitigate the curve of the hull pretty
> well, but am  concerned about what size wood screw to use to fasten the 
> cap
> rail down onto the bulwarks.   I have done one segment of cap rail with #8 
> x
> 11/4" wood screws, leaving about 7/8" embedded in the bulwrk and the top
> portion of the screw countersunk half way into the 5/8 cap. But the # 8
> screws seems a little puny!
>
> if  I use a larger counter sunk  woodscrew, say a #10 would that weaken 
> the
> cross section of wood across the cap rail to much at each screw,  (12 to 
> 16"
> spacing along the rail) or if I stay with the smaller #8 screw, will that 
> be
> to little holding power once the ocean slams into the already spring 
> loaded
> teak rails??
>
> I think I am inclined to go with a larger #10 screw, but would appreciate
> any advice (tomorrow I install the second length)
>
> P.S.  Also, thoughts on screwing and glueing the teak more or less
> permanently to the bulwark with epoxy, or just bed it with dolphinite
> bedding compound... The bulwarks are sapelle, a form of African Mahogony,
> hence susceptible to rot at some point..
>
> thanks much!
>
> Glenn P.
> dolce 318
>
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On May 22, 2012, at 6:15 PM, "John Birch" <Sunstone at cogeco.ca> wrote:
>
>> Thicker, heavier, is 'more gooder' ; )
>>
>> Used it on our A-30, now on our A-37, makes a difference.
>>
>> ATB
>>
>> John
>>
>>
>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jeffrey" <alberg30 at fongemie.com>
>> To: "Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all"
>> <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
>> Sent: Tuesday, May 22, 2012 8:48 PM
>> Subject: [Public-List] What size coax for vhf?
>>
>>
>>> Anyone know anything about coax & vhf radios? I'm replacing the rotten
>>> old
>>> wire in the mast. RG-8x or RG-213.  Is R-213 overkill for our boats?
>>>
>>> I've seen the numbers for signal loss, but it means nothing to me. I 
>>> keep
>>> the radio about two feet from the galley bulkhead so i'm estimating 50
>>> feet
>>> to the top of the mast.
>>> _______________________________________________
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>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
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