[Public-List] Re-Sealing the Deck to Hull Joint

[Glenn]

I had a similar experience to Michael, although my toe rails were definitely teak.  Just reduced in height and thickness over the years by to many sandings.  The wood looked basically good, but had started to rot inside would not have lasted another 5 to 10 years, so I replaced with 4" x11/4" Sapele bulwarks with teak cap rails.  The biggest problem removing the original rails in my case was removing the wooden plugs.  I was not careful enough and the surrounding toe rail splintered put and ruined the original surface, requiring new toe rails, which I replaced with the bulwarks.  I discovered bad wood as ai removed the various sections.  An alternate to replacing with teak or mahogony is to use pre fabricated aluminium toe rail rolled to the curve of the hull.  There are several types available on the market these days. Usually samples are in the various marine supply catalogs.

Glenn Brooks
Dolce 318. 

Sent from my iPad

On Dec 23, 2013, at 3:02 PM, Michael Grosh <dickdurk at gmail.com> wrote:

> I replaced my rails on #220 (1967) a few years ago. The rail looks like
> teak, but is not. The outside of the wood was decent ( probably from being
> oiled/varnished over the years) the interior was basically powder - which
> explained the leaking joint, in my case.
> I removed and prepped, filling in the original bolt holes ( I couldn't
> figure out how to get holes in the New teak to line up with the old holes).
> Fabricating and installing new teak was beyond my capabilities, so it was a
> boatyard install. $8500.00. At least there is a target you can aim for.
> I think it was boat caulk used for sealant, which I provided.  5200 has a
> very limited number of uses on a boat, in my opinion.
> Michael Grosh
> 220
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