[Public-List] re. halyard replacement

[Jay Davenport via Public-List]

I replaced the sheave on Revolution, #526, when I decided to move from a wire/rope halyard to a 3/8" rope halyard. I gave the old sheave to a local machine shop, and told them to duplicate it, but to cut a 3/8" channel around it's edge instead of the narrow channel for wire in the old sheave. I also told them to reduce the diameter of the sheave to accommodate the greater thickness of the 3/8" line passing over it. This prevents the 3/8" line from binding against the top of the sheave box.
The new sheave was an easy install, and has given me years of trouble-free service.
Jay Davenport
      From: Gordon Laco via Public-List <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
 To: Gordon Laco <mainstay at csolve.net>; Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>; George Dinwiddie <gdinwiddie at alberg30.org>; Michael Connolly <crufone at comcast.net> 
 Sent: Wednesday, January 28, 2015 9:07 AM
 Subject: Re: [Public-List] re. halyard replacement
   
Hello again - 

I've kicked around the concept of using a high-performance tapered spinnaker
sheet for a main halyard wire replacement.  Ideally, the exposed aramid core
of the tapered sheet would run where the wire currently does in my rig....
That way I wouldn't have to rebuild the sheave box and replace the sheave.

A tapered sheet is a line where there is a core of very low stretch exotic
fibre, which has a sheath on the part to be handled of polyester.  In effect
the same principal as a wire/rope halyard in the old days.

At this point I have to point out the flawed logic in this course of
reasoning....  I'm in the midst of re-reading 'Zen and the Art of Motorcycle
Maintenance' which of course isn't about maintaining bikes at all, rather
it's about purity of logic, clear thinking, truth, etc, using the machine's
pure needs as a metaphor....

So, if I want to get away from the wire halyard, I really should do it right
and make the sheave and it's fittings serve the new halyard... Not the other
way around, which would be fudging up a halyard to imitate the old wire so
that I could keep using the old sheave....

Hmmmm

Gord #426 Surprise


On 28/01/15 8:56 AM, "Gordon Laco via Public-List"
<public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:

> Makes sense to me.
> 
> G
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On 27/01/15 8:58 PM, "George Dinwiddie via Public-List"
> <public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:
> 
>> Michael,
>> 
>> That's the way I did it many years ago.
>> 
>>  - George
>> 
>> On 1/27/15 7:30 PM, Michael Connolly via Public-List wrote:
>>> Ryan,
>>> So in that case what would you do?  Attach a messenger to the wire at
>>> the mast winch and pull the line part of the halyard to remove the
>>> wire up and then down the mast, detach the messenger and then
>>> reattach the new wire part of the wire/line halyard and haul the wire
>>> up and then down the mast with the messenger? I guess the shackle
>>> would have to be removed and then reattached so only the wire passes
>>> around the mast head sheave.
>>> 
>>> Ryan/Gord, what is your take on this?
>>> 
>>> Michael #133
>>> ----- Original Message -----
>>> 
>>> From: "Ryan Martin via Public-List" <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
>>> To: public-list at lists.alberg30.org
>>> Sent: Tuesday, January 27, 2015 5:24:20 PM
>>> Subject: [Public-List] re. haylard replacment
>>> 
>>> If you still have wire to rope for your mainsail haylard there may be
>>> guide plates on the mast preventing something like a 3/8 line going
>>> through.
> 
> 
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