[Public-List] re. halyard replacement

[Gordon Laco via Public-List]

Jay, that¹s the right way to do it.  Purity of thought and purpose are all
over it....

G



On 28/01/15 10:03 AM, "Jay Davenport" <jay at saildriver.com> wrote:

> I replaced the sheave on Revolution, #526, when I decided to move from a
> wire/rope halyard to a 3/8" rope halyard. I gave the old sheave to a local
> machine shop, and told them to duplicate it, but to cut a 3/8" channel around
> it's edge instead of the narrow channel for wire in the old sheave. I also
> told them to reduce the diameter of the sheave to accommodate the greater
> thickness of the 3/8" line passing over it. This prevents the 3/8" line from
> binding against the top of the sheave box.
> 
> The new sheave was an easy install, and has given me years of trouble-free
> service.
> 
> Jay Davenport
> 
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>    From: Gordon Laco via Public-List <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
>  To: Gordon Laco <mainstay at csolve.net>; Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all
> <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>; George Dinwiddie <gdinwiddie at alberg30.org>;
> Michael Connolly <crufone at comcast.net>
>  Sent: Wednesday, January 28, 2015 9:07 AM
>  Subject: Re: [Public-List] re. halyard replacement
>   
>  
> 
> Hello again - 
> 
> I've kicked around the concept of using a high-performance tapered spinnaker
> sheet for a main halyard wire replacement.  Ideally, the exposed aramid core
> of the tapered sheet would run where the wire currently does in my rig....
> That way I wouldn't have to rebuild the sheave box and replace the sheave.
> 
> A tapered sheet is a line where there is a core of very low stretch exotic
> fibre, which has a sheath on the part to be handled of polyester.  In effect
> the same principal as a wire/rope halyard in the old days.
> 
> At this point I have to point out the flawed logic in this course of
> reasoning....  I'm in the midst of re-reading 'Zen and the Art of Motorcycle
> Maintenance' which of course isn't about maintaining bikes at all, rather
> it's about purity of logic, clear thinking, truth, etc, using the machine's
> pure needs as a metaphor....
> 
> So, if I want to get away from the wire halyard, I really should do it right
> and make the sheave and it's fittings serve the new halyard... Not the other
> way around, which would be fudging up a halyard to imitate the old wire so
> that I could keep using the old sheave....
> 
> Hmmmm
> 
> Gord #426 Surprise
> 
> 
> On 28/01/15 8:56 AM, "Gordon Laco via Public-List"
> <public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:
> 
>> > Makes sense to me.
>> > 
>> > G
>> > 
>> > 
>> > 
>> > 
>> > On 27/01/15 8:58 PM, "George Dinwiddie via Public-List"
>> > <public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:
>> > 
>>> >> Michael,
>>> >> 
>>> >> That's the way I did it many years ago.
>>> >> 
>>> >>   - George
>>> >> 
>>> >> On 1/27/15 7:30 PM, Michael Connolly via Public-List wrote:
>>>> >>> Ryan,
>>>> >>> So in that case what would you do?  Attach a messenger to the wire at
>>>> >>> the mast winch and pull the line part of the halyard to remove the
>>>> >>> wire up and then down the mast, detach the messenger and then
>>>> >>> reattach the new wire part of the wire/line halyard and haul the wire
>>>> >>> up and then down the mast with the messenger? I guess the shackle
>>>> >>> would have to be removed and then reattached so only the wire passes
>>>> >>> around the mast head sheave.
>>>> >>> 
>>>> >>> Ryan/Gord, what is your take on this?
>>>> >>> 
>>>> >>> Michael #133
>>>> >>> ----- Original Message -----
>>>> >>> 
>>>> >>> From: "Ryan Martin via Public-List" <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
>>>> >>> To: public-list at lists.alberg30.org
>>>> >>> Sent: Tuesday, January 27, 2015 5:24:20 PM
>>>> >>> Subject: [Public-List] re. haylard replacment
>>>> >>> 
>>>> >>> If you still have wire to rope for your mainsail haylard there may be
>>>> >>> guide plates on the mast preventing something like a 3/8 line going
>>>> >>> through.
>> > 
>> > 
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> 
> 
> 
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